Beyond the glass

The Anada Spanish Wine List

What is open by the glass tonight is on the board. This is everything else: seventy-eight bottles on the page, and close to a hundred Spanish wines in the building once you count the sherries and the pours. Very little of it appears anywhere else in Melbourne, and none of it is here by accident.

  • The biggest vineyard on earth. Spain has more land under vine than any other country.
  • Vines that outlived the plague. Phylloxera never took hold in Spain’s sandiest soils, so it still farms ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines. France lost hers to the plague in the 1870s and had to replant from scratch.
  • Older than the rulebook. Some bottles below come off vines older than Spain’s wine laws.
  • Atlantic rain to bare slate. Twenty-three regions, from the green of Galicia to the terraces of Priorat and the sun of Andalucía.
  • Every wine, explained. A tasting note, a plain-English guide to the place it comes from, a way to say it out loud, and what it stands beside.

Search it, filter it, or just scroll. If you would rather we chose for you, say so at the table. That is the better option and we will never be offended.

78Wines
23Regions
38Grape varieties
$65From
Colour
Price
Style
Region

Espumoso Sparkling

Cava and Corpinnat. Spain's answer to Champagne, made the same way.

Penedès3 wines

2022 Lacrima Baccus Brut Nature Cava

Macabeo, Xarel·lo, Parellada•Penedès

Bone-dry Cava. Nothing added back after the bubbles.

$80bottle

Green apple, lemon pith, a little toasted almond from the lees. Chalky and very dry at the finish.

If you drink French

Made the Champagne way, second fermentation in the bottle. Leaner and less bready.

Say it LA-kree-ma BA-koos

Eat it withJamón.
ServeCold, in a white wine glass, not a flute.
RegionPenedès peh-neh-DESS · DO Penedès. Sparkling wine grown here is labelled DO Cava
sparklingcrispcitrushigh-acidfood-friendly

2021 Lacrima Baccus Brut Nature Rosado Cava

Garnacha, Pinot Noir•Penedès

Pink Cava, zero dosage.

$80bottle

Garnacha and Pinot Noir, pale copper in the glass. Wild strawberry and blood orange, then dried herbs. Tart, clean finish.

Say it LA-kree-ma BA-koos

Eat it withOlives and pickled vegetables.
ServeStraight from the fridge. A tumbler is fine.
RegionPenedès peh-neh-DESS · DO Penedès. Sparkling wine grown here is labelled DO Cava
sparklingcrispred-fruithigh-acideasy-drinking

2019 Recaredo Corpinnat ‘Terrers’ Brut Nature

Xarel·lo•Penedès

Corpinnat, not Cava. Xarel·lo, years on lees, zero dosage.

$175bottle

Baked apple, lemon curd, hazelnut, a whiff of smoke. The bubbles are more mist than fizz and the finish is long and salty. Severe, in the best sense.

If you drink French

Grower Champagne is the reference. Same obsession with estate fruit and long ageing, drier and more mineral.

Why it’s on the list

Recaredo is one of the houses that left DO Cava in 2019 to form Corpinnat: organic, hand-picked, estate fruit, long lees ageing. This is what that standard tastes like.

Say it rre-ka-RE-doo kor-pee-NAT te-RRERS

Eat it withSeafood paella. It has the weight for the rice.
ServeNot too cold. White wine glass. Give it air.
RegionPenedès peh-neh-DESS · DO Penedès. Sparkling wine grown here is labelled DO Cava
sparklingcomplexmineraltexturalbenchmark

Rosado Rosé

Spanish pink is not Provence pink. It has colour, grip and something to say.

Rioja3 wines

2023 Sierra del Toloño Rosado

Tempranillo, Garnacha•Rioja

Rioja rosado with grip.

$70bottle

Redcurrant, pink grapefruit, crushed herbs, a stony edge. Dry, faintly bitter at the end, the way good European rosé is.

If you drink French

Provence drinkers: same pale colour, more texture, less peach.

Say it SYE-rra del to-LO-nyo

Eat it withCroqueta de fuet with romesco.
ServeCold, not icy. A big glass helps.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
light-bodiedcrispred-fruitherbalwell priced

2024 Manuel Quintano ‘Labastida’ Rosado

Garnacha•Rioja

Pale, young Garnacha. Drink it this year.

$80bottle

White peach, wild strawberry, orange zest and a chalky, almost salty close. Light, with a little roundness in the middle.

If you drink Australian

Barossa Grenache rosé, from cooler, higher vineyards. Less weight, more snap.

Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no la-bas-TEE-da

Eat it withStuffed piquillo peppers.
ServeFridge cold. Pour small, refill often.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
light-bodiedcrispred-fruitstone-fruiteasy-drinking

2024 Bodegas Exopto Rosado

Garnacha, Tempranillo•Rioja

Darker rosado, closer to a light red.

$85bottle

Raspberry, pomegranate, dried thyme and something almost meaty. It has grip, and it is better with food than without. Still good on day two.

If you drink French

The darker pinks of Marsannay or the Loire.

Say it bo-DE-gas ek-SOP-to

Eat it withMorcilla with caramelised onion.
ServeLightly chilled. Red wine glass.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedred-fruitsavourytexturalfood-friendly

Penedès1 wine

2022 Entre Vinyes Oníric Pet-Nat Rosado

Garnacha•Penedès

Cloudy, softly fizzy Garnacha.

$100bottle

Pet-nat: it finished fermenting in the bottle, so there is a haze and the fizz is soft and a bit unruly. Sour cherry, blood orange, something bready from the lees. Low alcohol, bone dry.

If you drink Australian

The same idea as the Adelaide Hills and Gippsland pet-nats, with more red berry and less green apple.

Say it EN-tre VEE-nyes o-NEE-reek

Eat it withSourdough with ajo blanco.
ServeVery cold. Open slowly, over a glass. It froths.
RegionPenedès peh-neh-DESS · DO Penedès. Sparkling wine grown here is labelled DO Cava
pet-natsparklingnaturalchillablered-fruit

Ribera del Duero1 wine

2020 Pícaro del Águila ‘Clarete’

Tempranillo, Albillo•Ribera del Duero

Red and white grapes fermented together. An old Castilian habit.

$120bottle

Clarete is the old Castilian way of making pink wine. Deep pink, with sour cherry, orange peel, white pepper and an earthy note. It has real tannin and drinks like a light red. Five years old and still fresh.

If you drink French

The pale reds of the Jura, or old-school Chinon.

Say it PEE-ka-ro del A-gee-la kla-RE-te Gui is a hard g with silent u: 'A-gee-la', never 'a-GWEE-la'.

Eat it withPotato tortilla.
ServeLightly chilled, red glass. Better after an hour open.
RegionRibera del Duero ree-BEH-rah del DWEH-roh · DO
medium-bodiedsavourytexturalearthycomplex

Blanco White

Atlantic Galicia, high Castilian plains, and the whites of Rioja that nobody talks about.

Rías Baixas8 wines

2024 Ophalum Albariño

Albariño•Rías Baixas

The easy way into Albariño.

$95bottle

Green apple, white peach, grapefruit pith and a salty snap at the end. Dry, a little waxy, mouthwatering.

If you drink Australian

Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc drinkers: same citrus lift, with stone fruit and sea salt in place of passionfruit.

Say it o-FA-loom

Eat it withSeafood paella.
ServeCold, not frozen.
RegionRías Baixas ree-AS BY-shas · DO
medium-bodiedcrispcitrussalinefood-friendly

2024 Terras Gauda ‘Abadía de San Campio’

Albariño•Rías Baixas

The perfumed Albariño.

$100bottle

Orange blossom, white peach, honeysuckle. Drier and firmer in the mouth than the nose suggests, with a powdery texture and a salty finish.

Say it TE-rras GOW-da a-ba-DEE-a de san KAM-pyo

Eat it withStuffed piquillo peppers with squacquerone.
ServeCold. Ten minutes in the glass helps.
RegionRías Baixas ree-AS BY-shas · DO
medium-bodiedaromaticfloralcitrussaline

2024 Nanclares y Prieto ‘Tempus Vivendi’

Albariño•Rías Baixas

Leaner, saltier Albariño. Also poured by the glass.

$115bottle

Lemon rind, green almond, crushed oyster shell. Textured, close to chewy, and long.

If you drink French

If you drink Chablis, start here. Same austerity, more salt.

Say it nan-KLA-res ee PRYE-to TEM-poos bee-BEN-dee

Eat it withSourdough with ajo blanco.
ServeCool, not cold. Big glass.
RegionRías Baixas ree-AS BY-shas · DO
medium-bodiedmineralsalinetexturalcomplex

2024 Santiago Ruiz ‘O Rosal’

Albariño (O Rosal blend)•Rías Baixas

An O Rosal blend: Albariño with local aromatic grapes.

$120bottle

O Rosal is the subzone on the Portuguese border where Albariño is blended, not bottled alone. Pear, lime blossom, fennel, green herbs. Dry and taut, with a faint bitter twist that clears the palate.

If you drink Australian

Clare Riesling, softer in acid and wider in flavour.

Say it san-TYA-go rroo-EETH o rro-SAL

Eat it withSpring salad with Spanish cheeses.
ServeCold. No decanting.
RegionRías Baixas ree-AS BY-shas · DO
medium-bodiedaromaticfloralherbalcrisp

2023 Bodegas Pentecostés Albariño

Albariño•Rías Baixas

A year older than the other Albariños, and broader for it.

$125bottle

Baked pear, preserved lemon, a waxy edge, Atlantic salt underneath. The acid has softened into something silky.

If you drink Australian

Think of what a couple of years does to Hunter Semillon.

Say it bo-DE-gas pen-te-kos-TES

Eat it withJamón. It has the weight for cured pork.
ServeCool. A bigger glass.
RegionRías Baixas ree-AS BY-shas · DO
medium-bodiedtexturalsalinesavourycomplex

2024 Terras Gauda ‘O Rosal’

Albariño, Loureiro, Caíño Blanco•Rías Baixas

Albariño, Loureiro and Caíño Blanco.

$130bottle

Loureiro brings bay leaf and white flowers, Caíño Blanco the bite. Nectarine, grapefruit pith, a chalky grip, a salty end. Fuller than most Rías Baixas.

If you drink French

Lees-aged Muscadet for the salt and grip, though this is riper and far more floral.

Say it TE-rras GOW-da o rro-SAL

Eat it withSeafood paella.
ServeAround 9°C. No decant.
RegionRías Baixas ree-AS BY-shas · DO
medium-bodiedsalinecitrusfloralfood-friendly

2022 Zárate Albariño

Albariño•Rías Baixas

Val do Salnés Albariño with three years on it.

$145bottle

Salnés is the subzone closest to the Atlantic, and this is the tight, salty end of the grape. Green apple, lemon oil, wax and crushed stone from bottle age. No oak.

Why it’s on the list

Proof that Albariño ages. Three years on, it is only opening up.

Say it THA-ra-te Z is a Spanish 'th'; Galician locals often soften it toward 's'.

Eat it withCalamari with rocket and butter beans.
Serve10°C, then let it warm a little in the glass.
RegionRías Baixas ree-AS BY-shas · DO
medium-bodiedsalinemineralhigh-acidbenchmark

2024 Nanclares y Prieto ‘Soverribas’

Albariño•Rías Baixas

One parcel of 45-year-old vines, from the house we pour by the glass.

$170bottle

Raised in large neutral oak, so the wood adds breadth and no flavour. Lemon curd, quince, beeswax, and acid with the crunch of good Chenin. It sits still in the glass and keeps going after you swallow.

If you drink French

Savennières. Same beeswax and quince, same firm acid, sea salt where Savennières gives you wool.

Why it’s on the list

Tempus Vivendi is the blend. This is the same hands on one old parcel, which is where Albariño stops being a fresh white and becomes a serious one.

Say it nan-KLAH-res ee pree-EH-toh, so-veh-REE-bas

Eat it withGrilled prawns, or the jamón.
ServeCold, but not hard cold.
RegionRías Baixas ree-AS BY-shas · DO
medium-bodiedtexturalcitrussalineold-vinebenchmark

Rioja4 wines

2023 Manuel Quintano Blanco

Viura•Rioja

Unoaked white Rioja.

$95bottle

Viura on its own, no barrel. Green apple, pear skin, fennel, and a chalky dryness that builds as you drink. Quiet on the nose, more interesting in the mouth.

If you drink French

Closest to a dry Loire Chenin: apple and chalk, nothing shouting.

Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no

Eat it withJamón.
Serve10°C. It improves across the meal.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
light-bodiedmineralunoakedsavouryfood-friendly

2018 Familia Chávarri ‘Larchago’ Blanco

Viura•Rioja

An eight-year-old white Rioja.

$110bottle

Age is the point. The green apple has become baked apple and quince, with honey, toasted nuts and a waxy texture only years in bottle produce. Gentle and long.

If you drink Australian

Aged Clare or Eden Valley Riesling, with nuts in place of lime.

Why it’s on the list

Most whites on a list are eighteen months old. This one is eight, and it needed every year.

Say it fa-MEE-lya CHA-ba-rree lar-CHA-go

Eat it withSpanish cheeses, especially the hard sheep's milk ones.
Serve11 to 12°C. Too cold and it goes mute.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedtexturalsavourycomplexwell priced

2021 Luis Cañas Blanco

Viura, Malvasía•Rioja

Viura for the frame, Malvasía for the perfume.

$105bottle

White flowers, ripe pear, orange peel. A soft, slightly oily texture and a dry finish. It has settled well with five years on it.

If you drink French

Cassis or Bandol blanc: perfume, gentle weight, a saline landing.

Say it loo-EES KA-nyas

Eat it withGrilled seafood.
Serve11°C. Better twenty minutes after opening.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedaromaticfloraltexturalfood-friendly

2022 Bodegas Exopto ‘El Bernate’ Blanco

Malvasía Riojana•Rioja

Malvasía on its own. Almost nobody bottles it this way.

$125bottle

Usually the junior partner in white Rioja. Alone it is all dried apricot, orange peel, ginger and white flowers, waxy and mouth-coating. It smells sweet and is not. The finish is bitter citrus.

If you drink Australian

Canberra Viognier for the apricot and the oily texture, but drier and more bitter at the end.

Say it bo-DE-gas ek-SOP-to el ber-NA-te

Eat it withMorcilla with caramelised onion.
Serve12°C. Wide glass. It opens a lot.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedaromatictexturalstone-fruitcomplex

Rueda3 wines

2024 Cuatro Rayas Organic Verdejo

Verdejo•Rueda

Organic Verdejo from Rueda.

$70bottle

Grapefruit and lime, then the bitter-almond finish Verdejo always has. Light, dry, best very cold.

If you drink Australian

Closest to Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc, with less passionfruit.

Say it KWA-tro RRA-yas

Eat it withOlives, or the escabeche.
ServeFridge cold.
RegionRueda RWEH-dah · DO
light-bodiedcrispcitrusorganicwell priced

2024 Ángel Rodríguez ‘Martínsancho’

Verdejo•Rueda

The old-vine Verdejo that kept the grape alive in Rueda.

$75bottle

Lemon zest, quince, green almond and a bitter-herb finish more fennel seed than cut grass. Firmer and longer than most Rueda. It will age.

If you drink Australian

Young Hunter Semillon is the right comparison: citrus, a lanolin thread, built for a few years.

Why it’s on the list

Ángel Rodríguez kept old-vine Verdejo alive in Rueda. Martínsancho is that wine, and still the reference point.

Say it AN-hel rro-DREE-geth mar-teen-SAN-cho Ángel's g is throaty, like Scottish loch: 'AN-hel', not 'AN-jel'.

Eat it withSourdough with ajo blanco. Almond meets almond.
Serve9°C. Ten minutes in the glass.
RegionRueda RWEH-dah · DO
light-bodiedcrispcitrusbenchmarkage-worthy

2023 Miguel Arroyo Izquierdo ‘Demimo’

Verdejo•Rueda

Verdejo with a year or two on it.

$80bottle

Rueda is usually drunk in its first summer. Given time, the grapefruit softens into quince and dried herbs and a lanolin note arrives. The bitter almond keeps it upright.

If you drink French

Dry white Graves, leaner and more herbal.

Say it mee-GEL a-RRO-yo eeth-KYER-do de-MEE-mo

Eat it withCroqueta de fuet with romesco.
Serve10°C. A slightly wider glass.
RegionRueda RWEH-dah · DO
medium-bodiedtexturalherbalcitrusfood-friendly

Penedès2 wines

2022 Entre Vinyes Oníric Pet-Nat Blanc

Macabeo, Muscat•Penedès

Cloudy, grapey pet-nat.

$100bottle

Muscat for orange blossom and grape skin, Macabeo to keep it dry. Soft, foamy bubbles, closer to cider than Champagne. Pour it cloudy.

If you drink French

A pétillant naturel from Touraine, drier and more perfumed.

Say it EN-tre VEE-nyes o-NEE-reek

Eat it withCroqueta de fuet with romesco.
Serve8°C. Keep it upright and pour slowly.
RegionPenedès peh-neh-DESS · DO Penedès. Sparkling wine grown here is labelled DO Cava
sparklingpet-nataromaticfloralnatural

2022 Entre Vinyes Oníric ‘Sotaterra’ (skin contact)

Macabeo•Penedès

Macabeo left on its skins. Amber, with grip.

$110bottle

The skins give colour and a light tannin, like cold tea. Dried apricot, quince, orange peel, a bitter herbal edge. One of the few whites with a tannic tug at the finish.

If you drink Australian

Further down the road than the Adelaide Hills skin-contact whites: deeper colour, more tea leaf.

Say it EN-tre VEE-nyes o-NEE-reek so-ta-TE-rra

Eat it withJamón.
Serve12 to 14°C. Big glass.
RegionPenedès peh-neh-DESS · DO Penedès. Sparkling wine grown here is labelled DO Cava
skin-contacttexturalsavourymedium-bodiednatural

Monterrei2 wines

2020 Quinta da Muradella ‘Candea’ Blanco

Doña Blanca, Treixadura, Verdello•Monterrei

Three Galician grapes you have probably never met.

$90bottle

Doña Blanca, Treixadura and Verdello from Monterrei, on the Portuguese border. Green apple and lemon pith, then chamomile, crushed stone and beeswax with air. Five years old and still tight.

Why it’s on the list

José Luis Mateo has spent his career bringing back Galician grapes nobody else wanted. Candea is where that work starts.

Say it KEEN-ta da moo-ra-DEL-ya kan-DE-a Galician-Portuguese: 'da', not 'de'; -lla is 'lya' as in million.

Eat it withCalamari with rocket and butter beans.
Serve10 to 12°C. Give it air.
RegionMonterrei mon-teh-RAY · DO
mineralcitrushigh-acidcomplexmedium-bodied

2023 Adegas Valmiñor ‘Minius’

Godello•Monterrei

Godello, for anyone who finds Albariño a bit shrill.

$110bottle

Ripe pear, white peach, lime, almond skin. Real weight, unoaked, with a clean salty finish.

If you drink Australian

Mornington Chardonnay with the oak dialled right back.

Say it a-DE-gas bal-mee-NYOR MEE-nyoos Adegas is Galician for bodegas: 'a-DE-gas', not 'bo-DE-gas'.

Eat it withSeafood paella.
Serve10 to 12°C.
RegionMonterrei mon-teh-RAY · DO
medium-bodiedstone-fruitsalinetexturalunoaked

Bierzo2 wines

2022 Mengoba ‘Brezo’ Blanco

Godello, Doña Blanca•Bierzo

Godello and Doña Blanca from Bierzo.

$135bottle

Pear, white peach, a lick of hazelnut, and weight without any oak taste. Doña Blanca adds acid and a herbal edge so it never goes soft. Creamy in the middle, stony at the end.

Say it men-GO-ba BRE-tho

Eat it withStuffed piquillo peppers with squacquerone.
Serve10 to 12°C. Too cold and the texture disappears.
RegionBierzo bee-AIR-thoh · DO Bierzo
medium-bodiedtexturalstone-fruitmineralfood-friendly

2024 Castro Ventosa ‘El Val’ Godello

Godello•Bierzo

Poured blind against Chassagne-Montrachet, the table called this one the Burgundy.

$270bottle

Godello from Bierzo, where the Pérez family have grown grapes since the 1750s. Pear, white peach, hazelnut from the lees, and a mineral line the whole way through. Dry, broad, and it keeps going.

If you drink French

Chassagne-Montrachet. Not a figure of speech, see above.

Say it KAS-troh ven-TOH-sa, el BAL

Eat it withThe baked scallop with sobrasada.
ServeNot too cold or you lose the middle. Big glass.
RegionBierzo bee-AIR-thoh · DO Bierzo
full-bodiedtexturalmineralcomplexbenchmarksplurge

Valdeorras2 wines

2023 Viña Somoza ‘Neno’ Sobre Lías

Godello•Valdeorras

Godello from Valdeorras, aged on its lees.

$90bottle

Sobre lías: it sat on its spent yeast, and you can taste it in the soft, creamy weight around lemon and green pear. The slate gives a dry, flinty finish.

If you drink Australian

Leaner Yarra Chardonnay, minus the vanilla and butter.

Say it BEE-nya so-MO-tha NE-no

Eat it withPotato tortilla.
Serve10°C. No decant.
RegionValdeorras val-deh-OR-ras · DO
medium-bodiedtexturalcitruswell pricedfood-friendly

2024 Rafael Palacios ‘As Sortes’

Godello•Valdeorras

The benchmark for Godello.

$300bottle

Six parcels, under four hectares between them, vines forty to fifty years old, each fermented separately in oak vats. White peach, lemon oil, toasted almond, a chalky grip, and a salty finish that runs past where you expect it to stop. Dense and quiet.

If you drink French

Meursault, for the breadth and the slow reveal. Drier and more mineral.

Why it’s on the list

Rafael Palacios left his family's Priorat estate to make white wine in Valdeorras. This is the wine that decision was for.

Say it ra-fa-EL pa-LA-thyos, ass SOR-tess

Eat it withThe baked scallop with sobrasada.
Serve12°C. Big glass. It opens over an hour.
RegionValdeorras val-deh-OR-ras · DO
full-bodiedcomplexmineraltexturalage-worthybenchmarksplurge

Bizkaiko Txakolina1 wine

2024 Gorrondona Txakoli

Hondarrabi Zuri•Bizkaiko Txakolina

Basque coast white. Salty, spritzy, low alcohol.

$80bottle

Green apple, lime, sea salt and a faint prickle on the tongue. Very high acid, short and clean. Built for a second glass.

If you drink French

Muscadet drinkers will be at home, with a little more citrus and some spritz.

Say it go-rron-DO-na cha-ko-LEE Basque tx is 'ch'; the region is 'bees-KY-ko cha-ko-LEE-na'.

Eat it withCalamari with rocket and butter beans.
ServeVery cold. Pour from a height into tumblers.
RegionBizkaiko Txakolina biz-KY-koh chah-koh-LEE-nah · DO Bizkaiko Txakolina
light-bodiedcrispsalinehigh-acidwell priced

Cebreros1 wine

2023 El Galayo Blanco ‘Especial’ (skin contact)

Albillo Real•Cebreros

Albillo Real on its skins, from the Gredos.

$75bottle

A light tannin grip without tipping into cider. Apricot skin, mountain herbs, orange peel, and the dryness of granite country. Treat it as a light red.

If you drink Australian

A calmer relative of the Basket Range skin-contact wines. Herbs and stone fruit, not funk.

Say it el ga-LA-yo es-pe-THYAL

Eat it withCharcuterie.
Serve13°C, in a red wine glass.
RegionCebreros theh-BREH-rohs · DO Cebreros
skin-contacttexturalsavourymedium-bodiedherbal

Jumilla1 wine

2024 Bodega Cerrón ‘Remordimiento’ Blanco

Chardonnay•Jumilla

Chardonnay from Jumilla. Remordimiento means regret.

$85bottle

Grown high on the Jumilla plateau, where the nights turn cold, in the middle of Monastrell country. Nectarine, lemon curd, white blossom, no oak. Rounder than cool-climate Chardonnay, with a citrus line underneath.

If you drink French

Limoux, where France grows Chardonnay in the sun.

Say it bo-DE-ga theh-RRON rre-mor-dee-MYEN-to Peninsular c is 'th'; Latin Americans would say 'seh-RRON'.

Eat it withRoast vegetables.
Serve10°C.
RegionJumilla hoo-MEE-yah · DO
medium-bodiedstone-fruitunoakedcitrusfood-friendly

Terra Alta1 wine

2023 Edetària ‘Via Terra’ Blanc

Garnatxa Blanca•Terra Alta

Garnatxa Blanca from Terra Alta.

$70bottle

Not very aromatic, but wide and satisfying once it is in your mouth. Green apple, fennel, grapefruit pith, a soft creamy weight. It finishes on bitter herbs and salt.

If you drink French

The southern Rhône calls this grape Grenache Blanc. Terra Alta gives it more freshness.

Why it’s on the list

Terra Alta grows more Garnacha Blanca than anywhere in the world.

Say it e-de-TA-ree-a BEE-a TE-rra BLANG Catalan: the final -c in Blanc is swallowed, closer to 'blang'.

Eat it withAnchovies.
Serve10 to 11°C. A bigger glass.
RegionTerra Alta TEH-rah AL-tah · DO
medium-bodiedtexturalherbalsalinewell priced

Priorat1 wine

2023 Terroir al Límit ‘Històric’ Blanc

Garnatxa Blanca, Macabeu•Priorat

White Priorat. The region makes almost none.

$135bottle

Yellow plum, fennel, dried hillside herbs and a chalky line from the black slate. Weight without fat. Long, and slightly bitter at the end.

If you drink French

White Châteauneuf-du-Pape, leaner and stonier.

Say it te-RWAR al LEE-meet ees-TO-reek BLANG Catalan: H in Històric is silent; final t in Límit barely sounds.

Eat it withStuffed piquillo peppers with squacquerone and pine nuts.
Serve12°C. Large glass. Better in the second hour.
RegionPriorat pree-oo-RAT · DOQ Priorat
full-bodiedmineralherbaltexturalcomplex

Tinto Red

Two thirds of the list. Mencía and Garnacha at the light end, Toro and Priorat at the other.

Rioja15 wines

2024 Bodegas Exopto Tinto

Garnacha, Tempranillo, Graciano•Rioja

Young, purple Rioja with Graciano in it.

$85bottle

Blackberry, violets, and a twist of black pepper from the Graciano. Garnacha rounds the middle, Tempranillo gives it bones. Still all fruit.

If you drink French

Crozes-Hermitage drinkers: same pepper and weight, softer tannin.

Say it bo-DE-gas ek-SOP-to

Eat it withCroqueta de fuet with romesco.
ServeTwenty minutes in the fridge.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodieddark-fruitspicychillableeasy-drinking

2024 Artuke Tinto

Tempranillo•Rioja

Whole-bunch Rioja Alavesa, no oak.

$95bottle

Fermented the old Alavesa way, whole bunches, so it arrives vivid: crushed raspberry, liquorice, violets. Tannin barely there. Juicy.

If you drink French

Cru Beaujolais made the same way, with more earth and none of the banana.

Say it ar-TOO-ke

Eat it withPickled vegetables. The acid meets the vinegar head on.
ServeHalf an hour in the fridge.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
light-bodiedred-fruitchillableunoakedhigh-acid

2021 Manuel Quintano ‘Labastida’ Crianza

Tempranillo•Rioja

Crianza from Labastida.

$80bottle

At least a year in barrel and two years before release. Red cherry, dried strawberry, vanilla, cedar and a leathery note at the back. Soft tannin, dusty finish. Rioja with no make-up on.

If you drink Australian

Coonawarra Cabernet for the cedar and the cut, with red fruit instead of cassis.

Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no la-bas-TEE-da

Eat it withPotato tortilla.
Serve16°C. No decant.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedred-fruitoakedsavourywell priced

2023 Manuel Quintano ‘Q de Quintano’

Tempranillo•Rioja

Labastida Tempranillo before the barrel.

$90bottle

Red plum, morello cherry, a tomato-leaf greenness that is very Tempranillo, and a chalky finish. Bright, with fine tannin. It costs more than the Crianza because you are paying for fruit, not barrel time.

If you drink Australian

King Valley Sangiovese, with more flesh in the middle.

Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no, KOO de keen-TA-no The letter Q is 'koo' in Spanish, so 'KOO de keen-TA-no'.

Eat it withStuffed piquillo peppers.
ServeLightly chilled. Ten minutes open.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedred-fruithigh-acidsavouryfood-friendly

2021 Manuel Quintano ‘El Pionero’

Tempranillo•Rioja

Named for the man who first brought Bordeaux barrels into Rioja, in the 1790s.

$90bottle

Oak has been part of Labastida since that experiment, and here it seasons the wine without covering it. Dark cherry, dried fig, cedar, tobacco leaf. Firm tannin, long smoky finish.

If you drink French

Right Bank Bordeaux, which suits the history. Tempranillo finishes drier and dustier than Merlot.

Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no el pyo-NE-ro

Eat it withSpanish cheeses, the aged ones.
Serve17°C. Twenty minutes in the glass.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodieddark-fruitoakedcomplexage-worthy

2020 Marqués de Vargas Reserva

Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Garnacha•Rioja

Classical Rioja Reserva. Polished, not heavy.

$125bottle

Mostly Tempranillo, with Mazuelo and Garnacha, close to two years in oak. Cherry, blackberry, sweet spice, vanilla, tobacco, a balsamic thread. Silky tannin, long finish.

Why it’s on the list

Order it next to the Conde de San Cristóbal and taste Rioja and Ribera side by side. Rioja first, or the Ribera walks over it.

Say it mar-KESS deh VAR-gas

Eat it withLamb. Jamón. Manchego.
Serve16°C. Ready now.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedsilkyred-fruitoakedcomplexfood-friendly

2018 Manuel Quintano ‘Labastida’ Reserva

Tempranillo•Rioja

Eight-year-old Reserva, ready to drink.

$130bottle

Three years minimum before release, one in barrel, and 2018 was a cool year in Rioja, so it arrives fresh. Dried cherry, orange peel, leather, tobacco, forest floor. Tannin gone to silk.

If you drink French

Aged Bandol, softer and more perfumed.

Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no la-bas-TEE-da

Eat it withJamón.
Serve17°C. Decant gently off any sediment.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedsavourysilkycomplexbenchmark

2021 Valenciso ‘Laderas de Cabama’

Tempranillo•Rioja

Hillside Tempranillo from Valenciso. Perfume first.

$95bottle

Laderas means slopes. Red cherry, wild strawberry, dried rose and a cool chalky line. Fine, powdery tannin. Clean, stony finish.

If you drink Australian

Mornington Pinot drinkers will follow this easily. Dustier, more earth.

Say it ba-len-THEE-so la-DE-ras de ka-BA-ma

Eat it withCalamari with rocket and butter beans. A light red beats a white here.
Serve15 to 16°C. Burgundy glass.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
light-bodiedred-fruitfloralsilkymineral

2020 López de Haro ‘El Pacto’

Tempranillo•Rioja

Modern Rioja. Dark, glossy, oak-forward.

$130bottle

Black cherry, blueberry, mocha and toasted spice from the barrel. Plush tannin, warm finish. Less leather and dried fruit than the traditional style, more polish.

If you drink Australian

Modern McLaren Vale Shiraz, but Tempranillo's acid keeps the finish dry.

Say it LO-peth de A-ro el PAK-to H is always silent in Spanish: Haro is 'A-ro'.

Eat it withCharcuterie.
Serve17 to 18°C. Decant, or open half an hour ahead.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
full-bodieddark-fruitoakedsmokycomplex

2020 López de Haro ‘San Vicente de la Sonsierra’

Tempranillo•Rioja

A village Rioja: every grape from San Vicente de la Sonsierra.

$135bottle

Rioja only recently allowed a single village on the label. San Vicente sits high on the north bank of the Ebro and the wine shows it: red and black cherry, dried herbs, iron. Firmer and cooler than most Rioja, long and mineral.

If you drink French

Saint-Joseph, for the hillside fruit and the mineral spine.

Say it LO-peth de A-ro, san bee-THEN-te de la son-SYE-rra

Eat it withRoast vegetables, well charred.
Serve16 to 17°C. Big glass.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodieddark-fruitmineralearthyage-worthy

2020 Valenciso ‘Cemento’

Tempranillo•Rioja

Tempranillo raised in concrete. No oak at all.

$160bottle

No vanilla, no cedar, no smoke. Dark cherry, plum, dried thyme and a wet-stone coolness. Firm, chalky tannin. A long, clean finish.

Why it’s on the list

Almost nobody in Rioja makes a serious red without barrels. This is Tempranillo with nothing between you and the fruit.

Say it ba-len-THEE-so the-MEN-to

Eat it withSeafood paella. With no oak in the way, it sits beside saffron.
Serve15°C. Wide glass. Do not overchill.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedunoakedmineralsavourycomplex

2020 Valenciso Reserva

Tempranillo•Rioja

The wine Valenciso built its name on.

$185bottle

The classic Rioja Alta reading of Reserva. Red cherry, dried orange, cedar, sweet tobacco, leather. Tannin polished to silk, and a finish that keeps unfolding.

If you drink French

Village Gevrey-Chambertin, for the silk and the depth.

Say it ba-len-THEE-so

Eat it withStart it with the jamón and let it run through to the paella.
Serve17°C. Decant an hour.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedsavourysilkybenchmarksplurge

2019 La Rioja Alta ‘Viña Ardanza’ Reserva

Tempranillo, Garnacha•Rioja

Made since 1942, and the method has barely moved.

$210bottle

Tempranillo with a good share of Garnacha, years in used American oak, racked by hand every six months. Strawberry, dried fig, cedar and a curl of coconut off the old barrels. Silky, and open now.

If you drink French

Châteauneuf with some age, for the Garnacha warmth. The American oak takes it somewhere French wine does not go.

Why it’s on the list

A reference bottle. If someone at the table wants to understand traditional Rioja, open this, then the Arana beside it.

Say it la ree-OH-hah AL-ta, VEEN-ya ar-DAN-tha

Eat it withJamón. Slow-cooked lamb. Manchego at the end of it.
Serve16°C. Ready now, good for years.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedsilkyred-fruitoakedcomplexbenchmark

2017 La Rioja Alta ‘Viña Arana’ Gran Reserva

Tempranillo, Graciano•Rioja

Gran Reserva. The structured one.

$255bottle

Tempranillo with Graciano, all in used oak, held back years in barrel and bottle before release. Dried cherry, tobacco leaf, leather, a balsamic edge. Drier and firmer than the Ardanza.

If you drink French

Left Bank Bordeaux at ten or twelve years old.

Why it’s on the list

Ardanza is the generous half of traditional Rioja, Arana the serious one. Side by side, they are the quickest education in the region there is.

Say it la ree-OH-hah AL-ta, VEEN-ya a-RA-na

Eat it withAged Manchego.
Serve16 to 17°C. Decant if you have time.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
medium-bodiedsavouryage-worthycomplexoakedbenchmark

2022 Artuke ‘El Escolladero’

Tempranillo, Graciano•Rioja

Single-site Alavesa, planted in the 1950s.

$320bottle

Mostly Tempranillo with Graciano, a small share of new French oak. Black fruit, cracked pepper, olive, iron, and a floral lift. Fine, long tannin.

If you drink French

Cornas and Saint-Joseph, plainly.

Why it’s on the list

Arturo de Miguel is the winemaker Rioja is talking about, and this site is where that reputation comes from. The least Rioja-tasting Rioja on the list.

Say it ar-TOO-keh, es-ko-ya-DEH-roh

Eat it withThe lamb pintxo, or the morcilla.
Serve16°C. Big glass. An hour open pays.
RegionRioja ree-OH-hah · DOCa Rioja
full-bodiedsavouryspicydark-fruitcomplexage-worthysplurge

Toro5 wines

2022 Estancia Piedra ‘Joven Ecológico’

Tinta de Toro•Toro

Young, organic Toro.

$80bottle

Tinta de Toro is Tempranillo grown hotter and higher, with thicker skins. Joven means no barrel, so this is the grape as it is: blackberry, black plum, liquorice, violet. Dense, with chewy tannin.

If you drink Australian

Heathcote Shiraz drinkers will feel at home. Firmer and drier.

Say it es-TAN-thya PYE-dra HO-ben e-ko-LO-hee-ko Joven's j is throaty, like Scottish loch: 'HO-ben', not 'JOH-ven'.

Eat it withMorcilla with caramelised onion.
Serve16°C. A short decant.
RegionToro TOH-roh · DO
full-bodieddark-fruittannicorganicwell priced

2021 Estancia Piedra ‘Crianza Ecológico’

Tinta de Toro, Garnacha•Toro

Organic Toro, with time in oak.

$105bottle

Black plum, dried fig, leather, cocoa from the barrel, and a little Garnacha lifting the middle. Warm and full, tannin that grips and then lets go.

If you drink French

Gigondas, denser and more leathery.

Say it es-TAN-thya PYE-dra e-ko-LO-hee-ko

Eat it withSpanish cheeses, especially aged sheep's milk.
ServeRoom temperature. Half an hour open.
RegionToro TOH-roh · DO
full-bodieddark-fruitoakedorganicsavoury

2022 Matsu ‘El Pícaro’

Tinta de Toro•Toro

Young Toro. Big, and ready tonight.

$85bottle

Close to opaque. Blackberry, violets, smoke, with a short spell in barrel. Plush, with fine tannin. Dark plum and black pepper at the end.

If you drink Australian

Barossa Shiraz, fresher and drier.

Say it MA-tsoo el PEE-ka-ro

Eat it withPotato tortilla.
ServeRoom temperature or a touch cooler.
RegionToro TOH-roh · DO
full-bodieddark-fruitspicyeasy-drinkingwell priced

2021 Matsu ‘El Recio’

Tinta de Toro•Toro

El Pícaro's older sibling. Older vines, more barrel.

$120bottle

Black cherry, dried herbs, cedar, smoke. Firm through the middle, and the fruit is ripe enough to carry it. Liquorice and tobacco to finish.

If you drink French

A good Madiran, warmer and rounder.

Say it MA-tsoo el RRE-thyo

Eat it withCharcuterie.
ServeDecant twenty minutes. Large glass.
RegionToro TOH-roh · DO
full-bodiedtannicoakeddark-fruitage-worthy

2018 Telmo Rodríguez ‘Dehesa Gago’

Tinta de Toro•Toro

Telmo Rodríguez's Toro. Fruit, not oak.

$145bottle

Black cherry, blackberry, dried thyme, graphite. Nimble for Toro, with tannin sanded down by seven years in bottle. Dry and stony to finish.

Why it’s on the list

Telmo Rodríguez made his name reviving forgotten Spanish vineyards. This one is already seven years old, which is the expensive part.

Say it TEL-mo rro-DREE-geth de-E-sa GA-go Silent h inside Dehesa: say 'de-E-sa', two clean vowels.

Eat it withCroqueta de fuet with romesco.
ServeRoom temperature. Open early.
RegionToro TOH-roh · DO
full-bodieddark-fruitsavouryold-vinecomplex

Bierzo4 wines

2023 César Márquez ‘Parajes’

Mencía•Bierzo

Start here if you have never had Mencía.

$90bottle

Picture Cabernet Franc grown somewhere cooler and stonier. Red cherry, raspberry, violet, black pepper, something leafy. Fine, dusty tannin and bright acid. Mineral at the end.

If you drink French

Chinon is the reference, with more stone and pepper from the Bierzo slate.

Why it’s on the list

César Márquez is of the Pérez family behind Castro Ventosa, the house that makes the El Val Godello on this list.

Say it THE-sar MAR-keth pa-RA-hes

Eat it withMorcilla with caramelised onion.
ServeLightly chilled, 14 to 16°C.
RegionBierzo bee-AIR-thoh · DO Bierzo
medium-bodiedred-fruitspicyhigh-acidfood-friendly

2023 Mengoba ‘Brezo’ Tinto

Mencía, Garnacha Tintorera•Bierzo

Juicy, peppery Bierzo red.

$75bottle

Mencía for red cherry and pepper. Garnacha Tintorera, one of the few grapes with red flesh, for colour and plummy depth. Soft tannin, a lick of liquorice, fresh finish.

If you drink French

Morgon, with a little more colour.

Say it men-GO-ba BRE-tho

Eat it withPotato tortilla.
Serve14°C. Twenty minutes in the fridge.
RegionBierzo bee-AIR-thoh · DO Bierzo
medium-bodiedred-fruitspicyeasy-drinkingwell priced

2022 Bodegas Pittacum ‘Petit Pittacum’

Mencía•Bierzo

Mencía about fruit and soil.

$90bottle

Dark cherry, pomegranate, dried herbs, and graphite like wet stone. Firm, fine tannin. Closer to bitter cherry than jam at the end.

If you drink French

Saumur-Champigny, grown on slate instead of limestone.

Say it bo-DE-gas PEE-ta-koom, pe-TEET PEE-ta-koom

Eat it withSpanish cheeses.
Serve16°C. Half an hour open.
RegionBierzo bee-AIR-thoh · DO Bierzo
medium-bodiedred-fruitearthysavouryunoaked

2019 Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Villa de Corullón’

Mencía•Bierzo

The wine that made people take Bierzo seriously.

$155bottle

From the steep slate slopes above Corullón. Black cherry, dried rose, graphite, iron, smoke. Tight, polished tannin, oak folded in. Only beginning to open, with a decade ahead of it.

If you drink French

Côte-Rôtie, for the slopes and the iron. Less floral, more mineral.

Say it des-then-DYEN-tes de HO-ta pa-LA-thyos, BEE-ya de ko-roo-YON The J. is said 'HO-ta'; Castilian ll sounds like the y in 'yes'.

Eat it withJamón.
Serve16 to 18°C. Decant an hour. Big glass.
RegionBierzo bee-AIR-thoh · DO Bierzo
full-bodieddark-fruitmineralage-worthybenchmark

Ribeira Sacra3 wines

2022 Guímaro Tinto (Joven)

Mencía•Ribeira Sacra

Mencía off the cliffs above the Sil.

$100bottle

Ribeira Sacra's terraces are steep enough that every grape is picked by hand. Pale and floral: sour cherry, cranberry, violets, crushed stone. No oak, little tannin, almost salty at the end.

If you drink Australian

Gippsland Pinot drinkers: same weight, more stone.

Say it GEE-ma-ro Gui is a hard g, u silent: 'GEE-' as in 'geese'.

Eat it withOlives and jamón, to open.
Serve13°C. Treat it like Pinot.
RegionRibeira Sacra ree-BAY-rah SAH-krah · DO
light-bodiedred-fruitfloralchillablemineral

2020 Guímaro ‘Camiño Real’

Mencía•Ribeira Sacra

One parcel, five years in bottle.

$165bottle

The step up from the young Guímaro. Black cherry, damson, dried flowers, wet stone, a thread of smoke. Still tightly wound, and it unfolds over an evening.

If you drink French

Volnay, for the perfume and length. Cooler and saltier.

Say it GEE-ma-ro ka-MEE-nyo rre-AL

Eat it withRoast vegetables.
Serve15 to 16°C. Decant thirty minutes.
RegionRibeira Sacra ree-BAY-rah SAH-krah · DO
medium-bodiedmineralsilkycomplexage-worthy

2019 Sílice ‘Finca Lobeiras’

Mencía (field blend)•Ribeira Sacra

One barrel. Roughly six hundred bottles. Eighteen came to Australia.

$365bottle

A single plot on the terraces above the Sil, Mencía fermented whole bunch. Red cherry, cranberry, blood orange, a bitter Campari edge, stem spice. Light on its feet. Held in bottle for years before release.

Why it’s on the list

It is on the list because you are unlikely to see it again.

Say it SEE-lee-theh, FEEN-ka lo-BAY-ras

Eat it withOctopus.
Serve14 to 15°C, cooler than instinct says.
RegionRibeira Sacra ree-BAY-rah SAH-krah · DO
light-bodiedred-fruitsavouryherbalchillablecomplexsplurge

Jumilla3 wines

2018 Familia Pacheco Organic Monastrell

Monastrell•Jumilla

Seven-year-old organic Monastrell.

$70bottle

Monastrell is the Spanish name for Mourvèdre, and Jumilla's heat makes it dark and meaty. Blackberry, dried fig, black olive, woodsmoke. The bottle age has rounded the tannin.

If you drink Australian

McLaren Vale Mataro, playing lead.

Say it fa-MEE-lya pa-CHE-ko

Eat it withJamón.
ServeRoom temperature.
RegionJumilla hoo-MEE-yah · DO
full-bodieddark-fruitsavouryorganicwell priced

2024 Bodega Cerrón ‘Remordimiento’ Tinto

Monastrell, Garnacha•Jumilla

Jumilla, but light and juicy.

$85bottle

Crushed raspberry, dark cherry, black pepper, little or no oak. Low tannin, and it keeps sending you back for more.

Say it bo-DE-ga theh-RRON rre-mor-dee-MYEN-to

Eat it withStuffed piquillo peppers.
ServeTwenty minutes in the fridge.
RegionJumilla hoo-MEE-yah · DO
medium-bodiedred-fruitchillablenaturalfood-friendly

2021 Casa Castillo ‘Las Gravas’

Monastrell•Jumilla

Concentrated Monastrell that stays light on its feet.

$300bottle

Old vines on stony ground in one of Spain's hottest corners, and the wine never turns heavy. Blackberry, dark plum, dried herbs, and the gravel note the wine is named for. Fine tannin, long dry finish.

If you drink French

Bandol, without hesitation. Riper and more open now.

Why it’s on the list

Casa Castillo is the reference for Monastrell in Spain, and Las Gravas is the wine that made the case. It is in a very good drinking window right now.

Say it KA-sa kas-TEE-yoh, las GRA-bas

Eat it withThe lamb pintxo. The chorizo with padrón.
Serve16°C. Decant an hour if you can.
RegionJumilla hoo-MEE-yah · DO
full-bodieddark-fruitmineralold-vinecomplexage-worthysplurge

Cariñena2 wines

2023 Care Nouveau Tinto Sobre Lías

Garnacha, Syrah•Cariñena

Young Garnacha and Syrah, served cold.

$65bottle

A few months on lees for some flesh. Blackberry, blueberry, violet, and a peppery snap from the Syrah. Soft and juicy.

Say it KA-re Two syllables, 'KA-re', not the English word 'care'.

Eat it withPickled vegetables and almonds.
ServeProperly chilled, 12 to 14°C.
RegionCariñena kah-reen-YEH-nah · DO Cariñena
medium-bodieddark-fruiteasy-drinkingchillablewell priced

2021 J. Navascués ‘Cutio’

Garnacha•Cariñena

Garnacha from the Cariñena hills.

$80bottle

Raspberry and dried strawberry, then pepper and dried herbs. Soft through the middle, with fine dusty tannin. Cold nights keep the acid, so it finishes bright.

If you drink French

Cairanne, leaner and stonier.

Say it HO-ta na-bas-KWES KOO-tyo

Eat it withRoast vegetables.
ServeAround 15°C.
RegionCariñena kah-reen-YEH-nah · DO Cariñena
medium-bodiedred-fruitspicyfood-friendlywell priced

Ribera del Duero2 wines

2020 Bardos ‘Viñedos de Altura’

Tinta del País (Tempranillo)•Ribera del Duero

Ribera del Duero from high vineyards.

$110bottle

Hot days, cold nights on the Castilian plateau. Blackcurrant, black plum, cedar and vanilla, dried mushroom underneath. Tight tannin, bright acid.

If you drink Australian

Coonawarra Cabernet drinkers will feel at home, with an extra leathery note.

Say it BAR-dos bee-NYE-dos de al-TOO-ra

Eat it withRoast vegetables with plenty of char.
ServeRoom temperature. Fifteen minutes in a decanter.
RegionRibera del Duero ree-BEH-rah del DWEH-roh · DO
full-bodieddark-fruitoakedsavourycomplex

2022 Conde de San Cristóbal

Tinta del País (Tempranillo)•Ribera del Duero

The dark side of Tempranillo.

$115bottle

Ribera grows Tempranillo, called Tinto Fino there, high and cold, and it comes out darker than in Rioja. Blackberry, dark plum, chocolate and coffee from the barrel. Polished.

If you drink French

Saint-Émilion with some oak on it.

Why it’s on the list

Order it after the Marqués de Vargas and you get the whole Rioja and Ribera argument in two glasses.

Say it KON-deh deh san krees-TOH-bal

Eat it withChorizo, or the braises.
Serve16 to 17°C. Half an hour open.
RegionRibera del Duero ree-BEH-rah del DWEH-roh · DO
full-bodieddark-fruitoakedcomplexfood-friendly

Tenerife1 wine

2021 Suertes del Marqués ‘7 Fuentes’

Listán Negro, Tintilla•Tenerife

Volcanic soil, ungrafted vines, Tenerife.

$85bottle

Red cherry, pomegranate, then smoke, ash and a peppery, almost salty finish. Light, low in tannin, a bit wild.

Why it’s on the list

Phylloxera never reached the Canaries, so these vines grow on their own roots in volcanic rock, worked by hand on a mountainside.

Say it SWER-tes del mar-KES, SYE-te FWEN-tes The 7 is spoken in Spanish: 'siete', not 'seven'.

Eat it withGrilled seafood. One of the few reds that will not wreck fish.
Serve14°C.
RegionTenerife teh-neh-REE-feh · DO Valle de la Orotava is the relevant one here. Tenerife has five DOs in all: Valle de la Orotava
light-bodiedsmokyspicychillablesavoury

Valdejalón (Aragón)1 wine

2021 Frontonio ‘Microcósmico’

Garnacha•Valdejalón (Aragón)

High-altitude Garnacha. Perfume first.

$95bottle

Raspberry, dried strawberry, wild thyme, orange peel. Silky, with sandy tannin and enough acid to stay fresh. Warm-country fruit in a cool-country shape.

If you drink Australian

Old-vine Barossa Grenache, drier and more herbal.

Say it fron-TO-nyo mee-kro-KOS-mee-ko

Eat it withCharcuterie.
Serve16°C. Open early.
RegionValdejalón (Aragón) val-deh-hah-LON · Vino de la Tierra / IGP Valdejalón. Most Frontonio wines are labelled this way, not under DO Cariñena.
medium-bodiedred-fruitherbalsilkyaromatic

Navarra1 wine

2022 Luzador ‘Los Andreses’

Garnacha, Tempranillo•Navarra

Garnacha and Tempranillo from Navarra.

$80bottle

Red cherry, plum, liquorice, a dusty finish. Garnacha gives the soft middle, Tempranillo the edges. Navarra catches Pyrenean air, so it feels cooler than most Spanish reds.

Say it loo-tha-DOR los an-DRE-ses

Eat it withAlmonds.
Serve16°C. Big glass.
RegionNavarra nah-VAR-rah · DO Navarra. Navarra also holds several Vinos de Pago
medium-bodiedred-fruitsavouryfood-friendlyeasy-drinking

Campo de Borja1 wine

2020 Bodegas Aragonesas ‘Don Ramón’

Garnacha, Tempranillo•Campo de Borja

Campo de Borja Garnacha, warm and easy.

$80bottle

Raspberry, stewed strawberry, dried herb, sweet spice, with a little Tempranillo for grip. Soft and generous.

If you drink Australian

Barossa Grenache, drier and dustier.

Say it bo-DE-gas a-ra-go-NE-sas don rra-MON

Eat it withOlives and almonds, at the start of the night.
ServeSlightly cool. Any glass.
RegionCampo de Borja KAM-poh deh BOR-ha · DO
medium-bodiedred-fruiteasy-drinkingwell pricedfood-friendly

Utiel-Requena1 wine

2021 Murviedro ‘Sericis Cepas Viejas’

Bobal•Utiel-Requena

Old-vine Bobal.

$80bottle

Bobal is one of Spain's most planted grapes and almost unknown outside it. Thick-skinned and naturally high in acid, so it makes dark wine that still tastes fresh. Sour cherry, blackberry, violets, a stony bitter edge.

If you drink Australian

King Valley Sangiovese, darker and denser.

Say it moor-BYE-dro SE-ree-thees THE-pas BYE-has

Eat it withPickled vegetables. Bobal does not flinch at vinegar.
Serve15 to 16°C.
RegionUtiel-Requena oo-tee-EL reh-KEH-nah · DO
medium-bodiedhigh-aciddark-fruitold-vinefood-friendly

Manchuela1 wine

2022 Bodegas Ponce ‘La Casilla’

Bobal•Manchuela

The Bobal that made people pay attention to Bobal.

$80bottle

Wild raspberry, dark cherry, dried flowers, and a wet-stone, slightly bloody edge. Light on its feet for something this dark, with chalky tannin.

If you drink French

Morgon or Fleurie, with a firmer frame.

Why it’s on the list

Juan Antonio Ponce is the reason Bobal has a reputation at all. La Casilla is where he made the case.

Say it bo-DE-gas PON-the la ka-SEE-ya

Eat it withCalamari with rocket and butter beans.
ServeSlightly cool. Big glass.
RegionManchuela man-CHWEH-lah · DO
medium-bodiedred-fruitmineralhigh-acidold-vine

Monterrei1 wine

2020 Quinta da Muradella ‘Candea’ Tinto

Mencía, Garnacha Tintorera•Monterrei

Mencía and Garnacha Tintorera from Monterrei.

$90bottle

Galicia's driest, warmest corner, on the Portuguese border. Red cherry, violets and pepper from the Mencía, colour and grip from the Tintorera. Taut and stony.

If you drink French

Chinon, rounder and less leafy.

Say it KEEN-ta da moo-ra-DEL-ya kan-DE-a

Eat it withSeafood paella. Fresh enough to sit beside prawns.
ServeAround 15°C.
RegionMonterrei mon-teh-RAY · DO
medium-bodiedmineralfloralsavouryfood-friendly

Mallorca1 wine

2018 4 Kilos Vinícola ‘12 Volts’

Callet, Fogoneu, Syrah, Cabernet•Mallorca

Mallorca: Callet and Fogoneu, with Syrah and Cabernet.

$175bottle

Callet and Fogoneu rarely leave the island. Pale and perfumed, given shape by the Syrah and Cabernet. Wild herbs, red plum, dried orange peel, sea air. Silky, with a warm salty finish.

If you drink French

Pic Saint-Loup, with a lighter, more floral top.

Why it’s on the list

Mallorca makes very little wine and drinks most of it at home.

Say it KWA-tro KEE-los bee-NEE-ko-la, DOD-ze VOLS Catalan numerals: dotze volts; the final t in volts is dropped.

Eat it withGrilled seafood.
ServeDecant thirty minutes. Serve cool.
RegionMallorca my-YOR-kah · Vi de la Terra Mallorca
medium-bodiedherbalsalinesilkycomplex
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The regions, explained

Twenty-three corners of Spain, in plain English. What each place is known for, why the wine tastes the way it does, and what the letters on the label actually mean.

Rioja

ree-OH-hah

Northern Spain along the Ebro, near Logroño. Warm days and cool nights, the way Clare Valley works.

18 wines
Known for

The famous one, and famous for a particular taste: dried strawberry, vanilla, dill and leather laid over soft tannin, the signature of years in oak. Tempranillo leads, with Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo filling in around it. A newer generation picks earlier and works single sites, and their reds come out brighter and more savoury with the vanilla turned right down. Viura handles the whites, which run from crisp and young to nutty and aged.

On the label

DOCa Rioja(Denominación de Origen Calificada), one of only two top-tier denominations in Spain alongside DOQ Priorat. Two systems run side by side. One measures time: Genérico for the young wines, Crianza at two years with one in barrel, Reserva at three with one in barrel, Gran Reserva at five with two. The other, added in 2017, measures place: Vino de Zona, Vino de Municipio for village wines, and Viñedo Singular for single vineyards with old vines, low yields and hand harvesting. The EU formally approved the viñedos singulares designation in March 2026. Underneath all of that Rioja splits three ways: Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, cooler and Atlantic-influenced, and the warmer, more Mediterranean Rioja Oriental, which is Garnacha country.

Rías Baixas

ree-AS BY-shas

Rain, granite and the Atlantic, on Galicia's west coast near Vigo.

7 wines
Known for

Over a metre of rain falls here in a year, so the vines are trained overhead on granite pergolas and the wind is left to dry them out. Albariño grows almost within sight of the water. The wines come out high in acid and low in fuss: lemon, white peach, a little green apple, a salty snap at the finish. Seafood is the whole point.

On the label

DOFive sub-zones, three of which matter for most lists. Val do Salnés hugs the coast, the coolest and wettest of them and the historic home of Albariño, and its wines are the leanest and most saline. O Rosal lies on the Miño where the river becomes the frontier with Portugal, and often blends Albariño with Loureiro and Caíño Blanco for more perfume and more body. Condado do Tea sits further inland, warmer and drier, so its wines are riper and rounder. Soutomaior and Ribeira do Ulla account for the rest.

Penedès

peh-neh-DESS

Catalonia, half an hour inland from Barcelona. Warm on the coastal side, cooler in the hills behind.

6 wines
Known for

Spain's sparkling heartland, on limestone terraces climbing from the Mediterranean up into the hills. Three local grapes do the work: Xarel·lo for structure and a smoky herbal grip, Macabeo for apple freshness, Parellada for floral lift. Still whites and reds happen here too, and few parts of Spain farm as much organic land.

On the label

DO Penedès. Sparkling wine grown here is labelled DO CavaCorpinnat or Clàssic Penedès. Cava is the odd one out among Spanish DOs because it is defined by method, not place: bottle-fermented sparkling wine, legally made in several parts of Spain, from Catalonia to the Ebro valley, Extremadura and Requena near Valencia. Since 2022 Cava labels also carry a zone and a tier, with Cava de Guarda Superior covering Reserva, Gran Reserva and Cava de Paraje Calificado. In 2019 a group of leading Penedès growers, Recaredo, Gramona and Llopart among them, walked out of the Cava DO altogether and created Corpinnat, a certified collective brand demanding 100% organic farming, hand harvesting, largely estate-owned fruit, a minimum grape price and at least 18 months on lees. Clàssic Penedès is the third route, sitting inside DO Penedès itself: 100% organic, traditional method, at least 15 months on lees, with the disgorgement date printed on every label.

Bierzo

bee-AIR-thoh

Tucked into Spain's north-west between Galicia and León. Green, hilly, cooler than the Spain most people picture.

5 wines
Known for

Mencía is the reason to be here. On steep slate and clay it makes reds you could mistake for something northern French: crunchy red fruit, violets, a smoky stone edge, weight that never tips over into heavy. Atlantic rain arrives from one side and dry continental heat from the other, which is why even the warm vintages hold their acidity and their perfume.

On the label

DO BierzoAn ordinary Spanish DO until 2019, when it approved a quality pyramid borrowed from Burgundy. Climbing it: Vino de Villa for a single village such as Corullón, Vino de Paraje for a named site, Viña Clasificada for a single classified vineyard, and Gran Viña Clasificada at the top. Every rung demands lower yields and a longer proven track record. Most bottles still carry no tier at all, so start with the producer.

Toro

TOH-roh

West of Valladolid on the Duero. High, hot, dry, roughly a Riverland summer.

5 wines
Known for

Tinta de Toro is the local Tempranillo, thicker-skinned than most, and phylloxera never got through the sandy ground here, so ungrafted old bush vines are still standing. Sun and altitude together give reds that are dark, powerful and high in alcohol, all blackberry, liquorice and chunky tannin. The better producers now spend their energy reining that in.

On the label

DOTwo words carry most of the information on a Toro label. The first is Tinta de Toro, the local Tempranillo, which the reds have to be dominated by. The second is whichever ageing term applies, Joven through Gran Reserva, counting the months the wine spent in barrel and bottle. You will also meet Ecológico, which is simply Spanish for certified organic and has nothing to do with rank.

Jumilla

hoo-MEE-yah

Inland Murcia in Spain's south-east, back behind Alicante, where hot and dry are both understatements.

3 wines
Known for

Barely 300 millimetres of rain falls on this high plateau in a year, which tells you most of what you need to know. Monastrell is the grape, the one the French call Mourvèdre, and it copes. Sand in the soil kept phylloxera out, so a great many vines here are old and still on their own roots. The traditional style runs dark and warm, blackberry and dried herbs over a leathery savoury note. A newer group of growers picks earlier and keeps things fresher.

On the label

DOThe DO straddles two regions, Murcia and Castilla-La Mancha, and insists Monastrell dominate the reds. Whites are allowed as well, Macabeo, Airén, Moscatel and Chardonnay among them, so a Jumilla Chardonnay is playing by the rules, not breaking them. After that the label tells you time and not place: Joven, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva, and one flat address covering the lot.

Monterrei

mon-teh-RAY

Inland Galicia near Ourense, with Portugal a short way south. Warmer and drier than the Galician coast.

3 wines
Known for

The warmest, driest corner of Galicia, sunk into a valley that shelters it from the worst of the Atlantic rain. Godello, Treixadura and Doña Blanca make whites with more flesh and riper stone fruit than the coast manages, though the mineral spine stays firm. The reds come from Mencía and Garnacha Tintorera, dark and peppery and savoury.

On the label

DOSmall, and split in two. Val de Monterrei is the valley floor, warmer, on deeper alluvial soils, and it gives the rounder wines. Ladera de Monterrei climbs the hillside onto poorer granite and slate, and tightens everything up. Neither name reaches many labels, so treat them as background, not a shopping guide.

Rueda

RWEH-dah

High plains an hour south of Valladolid, in Castilla y León. Dry, and cold once the sun goes.

3 wines
Known for

Verdejo's home ground, on stony pebbled soil at 700 to 800 metres, where the heat ripens the fruit and the cold nights protect the acid. Grapefruit, fennel, green herbs, and a faintly bitter almond twist right at the end. Sauvignon Blanc drinkers land here easily, though there is more texture to it than that.

On the label

DORueda rewrote its labels around 2019. Plain 'Rueda' is now the main designation, in place of the varietal declarations that used to sit on the front. Gran Vino de Rueda means vines of at least 30 years and low yields. Vino de Pueblo is the village tier, taking 85% of its fruit from the named municipality. The old oxidative style, Rueda Dorado, survives, and so does sparkling Rueda.

Cariñena

kah-reen-YEH-nah

High stony plains in Aragón, south of Zaragoza. Fierce days, cold nights.

2 wines
Known for

Start with the wind. A cold northerly called the cierzo scours these high stony vineyards and keeps them dry and healthy, and the reds it helps make are dark, juicy and herb-scented, with tannin that has grip but no meanness. The name is where people come unstuck. The town of Cariñena gave the Cariñena grape its name, then carried on planting Garnacha, which is most of what grows here now.

On the label

DO CariñenaRecognised in 1932, which puts it among Spain's original denominations. The only ladder it climbs is made of time, Joven at the bottom and Gran Reserva at the top, with no map of villages or vineyards underneath. Keep the two Cariñenas straight as you read the shelf: the place and the grape share a name, and a bottle labelled DO Cariñena is far more likely to be Garnacha.

Priorat

pree-oo-RAT

Steep baked hills two hours west of Barcelona, hotter and drier than McLaren Vale and a great deal steeper.

2 wines
Known for

Llicorella is the word to remember. It is a black slate that splits easily, and it sends vine roots metres down in search of water. Yields end up tiny and the wines end up dense and serious: dark cherry and dried fig, wild herbs, a smoky mineral streak, tannin with real grip. Old-vine Garnatxa and Carinyena carry the load.

On the label

DOQ Priorat(Denominació d'Origen Qualificada), one of only two top-tier denominations in Spain alongside DOCa Rioja. DOQ is the highest regional classification Spain grants, and only Priorat and Rioja hold it. Sitting on top of that is Els Noms de la Terra, a pyramid lifted straight from Burgundy: DOQ Priorat at the base, then Vi de Vila for wines from one village, Gratallops for instance, then Vi de Paratge, which points at a specific site, then Vinya Classificada, then Gran Vinya Classificada at the summit. Every rung asks for lower yields, tighter traceability and more history to point to. Velles Vinyes also turns up, and simply marks old vines.

Ribeira Sacra

ree-BAY-rah SAH-krah

Cool, wet, green and close to vertical. River gorges inland from the Galician coast, near Ourense.

2 wines
Known for

Heroic viticulture is the official term, and for once the official term undersells it. Terraces stack up above the Sil and the Miño at angles no machine can hold, so every grape is picked by hand and carried out, sometimes by boat. What comes off them is Mencía grown on slate and granite: tart red cherry, crushed herbs, a wet-stone edge, and a weight that stops well short of heavy. Cabernet Franc from the Loire is a far closer reference than anything grown somewhere warm.

On the label

DOFive sub-zones sit inside the DO. Amandi is the celebrated one, on sun-facing slate terraces above the Sil, and its Mencía has the most structure. Ribeiras do Sil shares that slate. Ribeiras do Miño and Chantada lie closer to the Atlantic on granite and catch more rain, so their wines are lighter and brighter. Quiroga-Bibei, out to the east, is the warmest, and the only one permitted to plant flat ground. Some labels name the sub-zone. Plenty do not.

Ribera del Duero

ree-BEH-rah del DWEH-roh

High plains near Valladolid, two hours north of Madrid. Scorching afternoons, freezing nights.

2 wines
Known for

Tempranillo goes by Tinta del País or Tinto Fino here, planted between 750 and 900 metres on limestone and clay. Scorching days and cold nights thicken the skins and deepen the colour, and what follows is darker, firmer and more tannic than Rioja, with black fruit, liquorice and a savoury edge. It usually wants food alongside it.

On the label

DOThis is where the ageing words repay learning properly. Joven or Roble covers the young wines, Crianza means two years with one of them in barrel, Reserva three years with one in barrel, Gran Reserva five years with two. All of it measures time, not place, because the DO does not divide its ground up. White wine only became legal inside the DO from the 2019 harvest, made from the local Albillo Mayor, the same grape behind the region's pale old-style claretes.

Bizkaiko Txakolina

biz-KY-koh chah-koh-LEE-nah

Basque coast, either side of Bilbao. Wet, windy, sea-sprayed. Tasmania's east coast in another language.

1 wine
Known for

Poured from a height, traditionally, to wake up the faint prickle of fizz running through it. Txakoli is low in alcohol and bracing in the best way: green apple, lemon pith, salt on the close. Hondarrabi Zuri grows on green hillsides above the Bay of Biscay, where the rain and the sea air keep everything taut.

On the label

DO Bizkaiko TxakolinaTxakoli comes in threes, one DO per Basque province: Bizkaiko here in Bizkaia, Getariako on the coast at Getaria, Arabako inland in Álava. Bizkaia's are the roundest and most serious of them, occasionally barrel aged, where Getaria's is the spritzy pour you drink standing up at a bar. Ageing gets no mention anywhere on these labels, and it hardly matters. Almost every bottle is drunk within a year or two of the harvest.

Campo de Borja

KAM-poh deh BOR-ha

Aragón in the north-east, an hour out of Zaragoza. Barossa heat, and just as dry.

1 wine
Known for

Stony slopes run down off Mount Moncayo, baking through the day and chilling hard at night, and the Garnacha planted on them is old. The region calls itself the Empire of Garnacha and has the vine age to justify the swagger. Its reds are soft and generous, ripe raspberry and plum with a warm herbal lift, and they cost very little for what they deliver.

On the label

DOThe rulebook does four things: draws the boundary, names the permitted grapes, caps the yields, and hands you the ageing words, Joven for the young ones and then Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva as the wine spends longer in oak and glass. Nothing on the label ranks one patch of ground above another. The phrase worth hunting for is viñas viejas, meaning old vines.

Cebreros

theh-BREH-rohs

High granite in the Sierra de Gredos, west of Madrid. Cold nights do the work, much as they do around Canberra.

1 wine
Known for

Gredos is where Garnacha goes pale and perfumed. Old bush vines cling to granite at serious altitude, cold mountain nights guard the acidity, and the reds come out floral and red-fruited, never heavy. Albillo Real, the local white, gives stony, textural wines that take well to a little skin contact.

On the label

DO Cebreros(DOP Cebreros), created in 2019. Among the youngest denominations in Spain. It started life as a quality-wine category and was registered by the European Commission as a protected designation in 2019, with Garnacha carrying the reds and Albillo Real the whites. Gredos made its name long before any of that paperwork existed, and plenty of the best growers still bottle under Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León. The tier is close to meaningless here. The name above it is not.

Mallorca

my-YOR-kah

A Balearic island out in the Mediterranean, east of Valencia. Heat, with sea breezes cutting through it.

1 wine
Known for

Callet, Manto Negro and Fogoneu, three grapes almost nobody off the island bothers with. Limestone, sea air, and mid-weight reds leaning herbal, not sweet: bright red fruit, a faint saline edge. Syrah and Cabernet often join in.

On the label

Vi de la Terra Mallorca(the island's regional IGP). Mallorca does have two DOs, Binissalem and Pla i Llevant, but most of the interesting wines sit outside them. Vi de la Terra is Catalan for Vino de la Tierra, Spain's regional IGP tier, one rung below DO. On paper it reads like a demotion. In practice the island's most ambitious growers work outside the DO lines deliberately, blending across Mallorca or planting varieties the DOs restrict, so many of the best bottles wear the humbler label. The tier is not the story here.

Manchuela

man-CHWEH-lah

Inland, on the high plains between Madrid and Valencia, where the days cook and the nights bite.

1 wine
Known for

Bobal's best address. Thick skins, naturally high acidity, limestone at 600 to 800 metres, and reds that arrive with dark cherry, violets and a taut fresh line through the middle. Given a light hand and not much oak, the grape tastes far more elegant than its inky colour suggests.

On the label

DOCreated in 2000 along the border of Albacete and Cuenca, which makes it young. Do not muddle it with the much larger DO La Mancha next door. The classification stops at the boundary line, and inside it every wine is ranked by how long it aged, Joven through to Gran Reserva. Which leaves the producer's name doing the heavy lifting.

Navarra

nah-VAR-rah

Northern Spain around Pamplona, sharing a boundary with Rioja. Cool in the north, warm in the south.

1 wine
Known for

For decades Navarra meant one thing to the rest of the world: dry Garnacha rosado, pale and serious, with none of the sweetness people brace for. It still makes that better than almost anywhere. The region itself runs a long way, from the foothills of the Pyrenees down to the Ebro valley, so styles vary widely, but the through line is old-vine Garnacha, whose reds come out lifted and full of red fruit, not weight.

On the label

DO Navarra. Navarra also holds several Vinos de Pago(VP), Spain's single-estate top tier. DO Navarra covers a lot of ground and a lot of different weather, and inside it the label keeps to the standard vocabulary, Joven up through Crianza and Reserva to Gran Reserva. What sits above is the interesting part. Vino de Pago is a legal category awarded to an individual estate, not a region, on the strength of its own terroir and track record, and Navarra holds several, Arínzano and Otazu among them. A Pago wine is grown, made and bottled by that single estate.

Tenerife

teh-neh-REE-feh

One of the Canary Islands, off north-west Africa, near Santa Cruz. Volcanic ground, Atlantic air.

1 wine
Known for

Black volcanic soil, ungrafted old vines that phylloxera never found, and rows climbing the flank of an enormous volcano. Listán Negro turns all of that into light, smoky reds with sour cherry and an unmistakable note of ash and flint. The latitude promises something baked and heavy. Trade winds and altitude deliver the opposite, and the wines stay fresh and quick on their feet.

On the label

DO Valle de la Orotava is the relevant one here. Tenerife has five DOs in all: Valle de la OrotavaYcoden-Daute-Isora, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Valle de Güímar and Abona. Valle de la Orotava runs down the island's green northern slope below Mount Teide, and its fame rests on cordón trenzado, a training system found nowhere else, where vine shoots are plaited into ropes several metres long and laid out across the ground. None of it can be mechanised, so everything happens by hand. The paperwork is far plainer than the farming: a single designation with nothing layered on top of it. There is also an umbrella DO Islas Canarias for wines blended across the archipelago.

Terra Alta

TEH-rah AL-tah

Southern Catalonia, inland from Tarragona. Hot, dry, windy.

1 wine
Known for

Roughly a third of the world's Garnatxa Blanca grows here, which is reason enough to look. The vines sit on sandy fossil-dune soil the locals call panal, with barely any rain and two strong winds keeping disease at bay. The whites trade zing for texture: ripe stone fruit, fennel, a chalky grip and, often, salt on the finish.

On the label

DOA Catalan DO on the right bank of the Ebro, pressed hard up against the Aragón border. Its only hierarchy is time in oak, Joven up to Gran Reserva, and a village or a vineyard has no way of announcing itself. The language is the thing to prepare for. Labels are usually in Catalan, so expect Garnatxa Blanca for Garnacha Blanca, and Blanc for Blanco.

Utiel-Requena

oo-tee-EL reh-KEH-nah

Inland from Valencia on a plateau around 700 metres. Bakes by day, drops away at night.

1 wine
Known for

Most of Spain's Bobal is planted here, a good deal of it old bush vines on clay and limestone at altitude. The reds are deeply coloured, dark plum and blackberry with a savoury herbal note, and they hold an amount of natural acidity you would not expect from anywhere this warm. The pale, bone-dry rosado is no afterthought either.

On the label

DOBobal sits at the centre of the rules, and the rest of the label is the familiar ageing vocabulary, counting up how long the wine sat in barrel and bottle before release. The quirk worth carrying around is this. Requena is one of a handful of places outside Catalonia legally authorised to make Cava, so sparkling wine grown in these vineyards can go out under the Cava DO instead.

Valdejalón (Aragón)

val-deh-hah-LON

High, dry, stony country in Aragón, west of Zaragoza and next door to Cariñena.

1 wine
Known for

Bulk wine country for most of its history, now a source of old-vine Garnacha worth chasing. Slate, schist and sand, high up, keep it perfumed and light despite the heat: wild raspberry, dried herbs, powdery tannin.

On the label

Vino de la Tierra / IGP Valdejalón. Most Frontonio wines are labelled this way, not under DO Cariñena.IGP, or Vino de la Tierra, sits a rung below DO and gives more room on boundaries, grape varieties and yields. Here that room is chosen, not settled for. The oldest and highest vineyards often sit beyond the DO's boundaries or straddle them, or the grower simply wants latitude the rules will not grant, so the most ambitious wines leave the cellar as Vino de la Tierra. Frontonio's bottles are the case in point.

Valdeorras

val-deh-OR-ras

Galicia's eastern edge, near Ourense, on cool slate hills above the Sil.

1 wine
Known for

Godello had nearly disappeared by the 1970s and this is where it was pulled back. It now counts among Spain's great white grapes, planted on slate slopes above the Sil, giving green apple and pear, a smoky mineral note and real weight across the palate, more of it again when the wine has aged on its lees. Mencía looks after the reds.

On the label

DOThe useful words on a Valdeorras label describe winemaking, not geography. Sobre lías means the wine rested on its spent yeast to build texture. Barrica means it saw a barrel. Both are common here, both add weight, and between them they will tell you more than the designation ever does. Godello is the flagship, though Mencía reds and Doña Blanca whites are covered too.

How to say it

Every grape and every word on this list, written the way it sounds. The stressed syllable is in capitals. Spanish z and soft c are said “th” in Spain, which is where these wines are made, so that is how they are given here.

The grapes Thirty-eight varieties. Most of them grow nowhere else.

Albariñoahl-bah-REE-nyoGalicia's star white. Lime, white peach and a salty snap.Galician. Same grape as Portugal's Alvarinho.
Albilloahl-BEE-yoOld central-Spanish white. Pear, apple skin and a soft, waxy weight.Two of them: Albillo Real and Albillo Mayor.
Albillo Realahl-BEE-yo ray-AHLGredos white off granite. Apple, fennel and a chalky, dusty finish.The Gredos and Madrid Albillo. Double l is a y.
Bobalbo-BAHLUtiel-Requena red. Dark plum, blueberry, bright acidity and a gentle grip.Stress the second syllable: bo-BAHL, not BO-bal.
CabernetKAB-er-nayCabernet Sauvignon. Blackcurrant, cedar and firm, tidy tannin.French name, French sound. The final t is silent.
Calletkah-YETMallorcan red. Light and savoury, red cherry and dried herbs.Mallorcan Catalan, so the final t does sound.
Caíño Blancokah-EE-nyo BLAHN-koRare Galician white. Grapefruit, white flowers and a bracing line of acid.The accent splits it: kah-EE-nyo, three syllables.
Chardonnayshar-doh-NAYThe world's white. In Spain often lean: citrus, apple, a touch of cream.
Doña BlancaDOH-nya BLAHN-kaBierzo and Valdeorras white. Pear, dried herbs and a lively mineral finish.Also called Moza Fresca. The ñ is ny.
Fogoneufo-go-NEH-ooMallorcan red, light and juicy. Strawberry, pomegranate and barely any tannin.Mallorcan Catalan. The -eu ending is NEH-oo.
Garnachagar-NAH-chaSpain's warm-hearted red. Raspberry, dried herbs, soft and generous.Grenache in France, Garnatxa in Catalan.
Garnacha Tintoreragar-NAH-cha teen-toh-REH-raRed-fleshed grape that stains. Inky colour, blueberry fruit and serious depth.Also called Alicante Bouschet. Tintorera means dyer.
Garnatxa Blancagar-NAH-cha BLAHN-kaWhite Garnacha. Ripe pear, fennel and a broad, faintly nutty feel.Catalan for Garnacha Blanca. Big in Terra Alta.
Godellogo-DEH-yoValdeorras white with real body. Stone fruit, hazelnut and a mineral core.Galician. The double l is a y sound.
Gracianograh-THYAH-noRioja's spice grape. Violets, black pepper, high acid and firm tannin.In Spain the ci is thy, not see.
Hondarrabi Zurion-dah-RAH-bee SOO-reeThe white grape of Txakoli. Green apple, lemon and a saline bite.Basque. Zuri means white. Basque z is s, not th.
Listán Negrolees-TAHN NEH-groCanary Islands red off volcanic soil. Red berries, woodsmoke and a mineral streak.Canarian. Cousin of Listán Prieto, Chile's País.
Loureirolow-RAY-roGalician white named for laurel. Bay leaf, lime blossom, crisp and fragrant.Galician. Also grown across the border in Vinho Verde.
Macabeomah-kah-BEH-oCava and Rioja white. Apple, almond and gentle, easy freshness.Viura in Rioja, Macabeu in Catalan. Same grape.
Macabeumah-kah-BEH-ooThe Catalan Macabeo. Apple, almond, soft and refreshing, the backbone of Cava.Catalan spelling. Called Viura in Rioja.
Malvasíamahl-bah-SEE-ahAromatic old white. Apricot, orange peel, honeysuckle and a waxy weight.A family, not one grape. Spanish v sounds like b.
Malvasía Riojanamahl-bah-SEE-ah ryo-KHAH-naRioja's aromatic white. Peach, fennel and a rich, rounded body.Really the grape Alarije. Blended with Viura for texture.
Mazueloma-THWEH-lohRioja’s name for Cariñena. A blending grape that adds acid and grip.
Mencíamen-THEE-ahBierzo and Ribeira Sacra red. Red cherry, crushed rock and floral lift.The c is th: men-THEE-ah, never men-SEE-ah.
Monastrellmo-nahs-TRELSun-loving southeastern red. Blackberry, liquorice, earth and chunky tannin.Mourvèdre in France, Mataro in Australia.
MuscatMUS-katThe grapiest grape. Orange blossom, table grape and musk. Made dry or sweet.Moscatel in Spanish. Several different Muscats exist.
Parelladapah-reh-YAH-daCava's third grape. Green apple, blossom, light and delicate.Catalan. The double l is a y sound.
Pinot NoirPEE-no NWARDelicate red. Red cherry, forest floor, silky tannin and bright acid.
Syrahsee-RAHPeppery dark red. Blackberry, black olive, smoke and cracked pepper.
Tempranillotem-prah-NEE-yoSpain's headline red. Plum, cherry, leather and tobacco once oak gets involved.Many aliases: Tinta del País, Tinta de Toro, Cencibel.
Tinta de ToroTEEN-ta deh TOH-roThick-skinned and dense. Black fruit, big structure and real power.Tempranillo under another name, adapted to Toro.
Tinta del PaísTEEN-ta del pah-EESRibera del Duero's version. Firm, dark, plummy and built to age.Tempranillo's local name. País is two syllables.
Tintillateen-TEE-yaCádiz red, historically made sweet. Dark berries, spice and surprising acidity.Tintilla de Rota is Graciano grown in Andalucía.
Treixaduratreh-shah-DOO-raRibeiro's backbone white. Apple, pear, quince and a soft, gentle texture.Galician. The x is sh: treh-shah-DOO-ra.
Verdejober-DEH-khoRueda's white. Grapefruit, fennel and a bitter almond snap on the end.The j is throaty, and the v sounds like b.
Verdellober-DEH-yoGalician white. Citrus, green herbs and a crisp, clean finish.In Galicia usually Godello. Not Portugal's Verdelho.
ViuraBYOO-raRioja's white workhorse. Apple, lemon and almond, going nutty and rich with age.The Rioja name for Macabeo. V sounds like b.
Xarel·loshah-REL-loCava's core white. Fennel, pear skin, chalky texture and firm acidity.Catalan: x is sh, and l·l is a long L, not y.

The words on the label What the letters and the Spanish actually mean.

DOdeh-OHDenominación de Origen. Spain's main quality tier: a defined area with approved grapes, rules on yields and ageing, policed by a regulatory council.Say the letters in Spanish: deh-OH.
DOPdeh-oh-PEHDenominación de Origen Protegida, the EU-wide protected designation. It is the umbrella that DO, DOCa and DOQ all sit under, so a DO wine is legally DOP too.EU wording. You will see both on labels.
DOCadeh-oh-KAHDenominación de Origen Calificada, the tier above DO. Only two regions hold it: Rioja, and Priorat, which uses the Catalan form DOQ.Calificada means qualified. Spain's top rung.
DOQdeh-oh-KOODenominació d'Origen Qualificada, the Catalan form of DOCa. It belongs to Priorat, the same top tier that Rioja sits in.Catalan spelling. Priorat's version of DOCa.
IGP / Vino de la Tierraee-kheh-PEH / BEE-no deh la TYEH-rraIndicación Geográfica Protegida, the tier below DO. Bigger areas, looser rules, more freedom. Vino de la Tierra is the older Spanish name for exactly the same thing.Often where the interesting rule-breakers end up.
Bodegabo-DEH-gaWinery, wine cellar, or the shop that sells it. On a wine list it means the producer.Plural bodegas. The g is hard, as in go.
Adegaah-DEH-gaThe Galician word for bodega. Same meaning, and a quick clue the wine is from Galicia.Galician and Portuguese for winery.
CavaKAH-baSpain's traditional-method sparkling, mostly from Penedès in Catalonia. Second fermentation happens in the bottle, with a minimum of nine months on the lees.Spanish v sounds like b: KAH-ba.
Corpinnatkor-pee-NATNot Cava. A separate certification created in 2019 by top Penedès growers who left the Cava DO: organic, hand-picked, pressed on the estate, minimum eighteen months on lees.Catalan: cor means heart. A trademark, not a DO.
Espumosoes-poo-MOH-soSparkling. The general Spanish word, used for fizz sitting outside Cava, whether that is traditional method, tank method or something more homespun.Escumós in Catalan.
BlancoBLAHN-koWhite.
TintoTEEN-toRed. Literally tinted or dyed, which is how Spanish talks about red wine.
Rosadoro-SAH-doRosé. Spanish rosado runs from pale and bone dry to deeper and fruitier, especially around Navarra and Rioja.
Clareteklah-REH-tehAn old style sitting between rosado and tinto: red and white grapes fermented together, pale in colour but with more grip than a rosé. Back in fashion.Traditional in Rioja, Cigales and Castilla y León.
JovenKHOH-benYoung. Little or no oak, bottled to drink now. Rioja retired the word and calls this Genérico instead.The j is throaty and the v sounds like b.
Crianzakree-AHN-thaIn Rioja, a red aged two years total with at least one in barrel. Whites and rosados, two years with six months in barrel. Other DOs vary.The z is th in Spain: kree-AHN-tha.
Reservareh-SEHR-baIn Rioja, red aged three years total, at least one in barrel and six months in bottle. Whites and rosados, two years with six months in barrel. Other DOs vary.
Gran Reservagrahn reh-SEHR-baIn Rioja, a red aged five years total, at least two in barrel and two in bottle. Whites and rosados, four years with six months in barrel. Other DOs vary.Only made in the better vintages.
Genéricokheh-NEH-ree-koRioja's official name for a wine making no ageing claim. Not lesser, just not playing the Crianza game. Often where the freshest, most modern bottles sit.Replaced Joven on Rioja labels.
Viñedo Singularbee-NYEH-do seen-goo-LAHRRioja's single-vineyard tier, introduced in 2017 and formally approved by the EU in March 2026. Vines at least 35 years old, hand-picked, low yields, tasted and approved.Spain's closest thing to a Burgundy grand cru.
Vino de MunicipioBEE-no deh moo-nee-THEE-pyoRioja village wine. The fruit is grown and the wine made within one named municipality, so the village name can go on the label.Rioja has 144 municipalities to choose from.
Vino de ZonaBEE-no deh THOH-naRioja sub-zone wine. All the fruit comes from one of the three zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa or Rioja Oriental.Rioja Baja was renamed Rioja Oriental in 2018.
Vi de Vilabee deh BEE-laPriorat village wine. Everything from one named village, the step up from straight DOQ Priorat.Catalan for village wine. The v sounds like b.
Vi de Paratgebee deh pah-RAH-djuhPriorat's named-place tier: smaller than a village, larger than a single vineyard. Historic local place names, mapped and agreed by the region.Catalan. The tge sounds like the j in judge.
Vino de VillaBEE-no deh BEE-yaBierzo's village tier and the Castilian equivalent of Priorat's Vi de Vila. All the fruit from one named village.Bierzo's ladder runs villa, then paraje, then viña.
Vino de ParajeBEE-no deh pah-RAH-khehBierzo's named-place tier, tighter than village. The Castilian equivalent of Priorat's Vi de Paratge.The j is throaty: pah-RAH-kheh.
Brut Naturebroot nah-TOO-rehSparkling with no sugar added after disgorging, under three grams per litre. Bone dry, and the style most serious Cava and Corpinnat growers put their name to.A step drier than Brut. Nothing hidden.
Sobre líasSO-breh LEE-ahsOn the lees. The wine rested on its spent yeast, which builds texture, a savoury creaminess and a little extra weight.Lías is two syllables: LEE-ahs.
Pet-NatPET-natPétillant naturel. Bottled before the first fermentation finishes, so the bubbles are the wine's own. Cloudy, gentle pressure, often a bit wild.Also called ancestral method. Usually unfiltered.
Skin contactSKIN KON-taktWhite grapes fermented on their skins, the way a red is made. Colour from gold to amber, a grip of tannin and a savoury, tea-like edge.Often called orange wine. Maceración in Spanish.
Txakolichah-ko-LEEThe Basque coast's white: sharp, low in alcohol, faintly spritzy and poured from a height. Made mostly from Hondarrabi Zuri.Basque: tx is ch. Chacolí in Spanish.
Jerezkheh-RETHSherry, and the town it comes from. Fortified wine from Andalucía running from bone-dry fino through to treacly Pedro Ximénez.The DO is Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, in three languages.
Bodegas y Viñedosbo-DEH-gas ee bee-NYEH-dosWinery and vineyards. In a producer's name it signals they grow their own fruit instead of buying grapes in.The y just means and, and it is said ee.
Cepas ViejasTHEH-pas BYEH-khasOld vines. No legal definition in most of Spain, but it usually means low-yielding, deep-rooted plants of fifty years or more.Cepa is the vine stock. Viñas viejas means the same.
Ecológicoeh-ko-LOH-khee-koCertified organic under EU rules. No synthetic pesticides or herbicides in the vineyard. It says nothing about what happens once the fruit reaches the winery.Ecològic in Catalan. Look for the EU green leaf.
FincaFEEN-kaAn estate or single property. On a label it usually points to one farm or one plot the wine came from.
Parajepah-RAH-khehA named place. A recognised spot within a village, smaller than the village and bigger than a single vineyard.Paratge in Catalan. The j is throaty.
ViñaBEE-nyaVineyard. Often just part of a brand name, so it does not always mean the wine came from one site.Viñedo is the more technical word for vineyard.
Vendimiaben-DEE-myaHarvest, and by extension the vintage year. Vendimia seleccionada means selected harvest, which is marketing language, not a legal category.Verema in Catalan. V sounds like b.

Spanish wine, answered

Why is the wine list at Anada entirely Spanish?
Because the food is. Anada cooks the peasant fare of Andalusia and southern Spain with Australian produce, and Spanish wine is built for exactly that kind of eating: high acid, dry and savoury, moderate alcohol, and designed to sit alongside olive oil, garlic, smoked paprika, jamón and seafood. A Spanish list is not a gimmick here. It is the shortest route to making the food taste like itself.
I do not know any Spanish wine. Where should I start?
If you drink Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio, start with Albariño from Rías Baixas. If you drink Chardonnay, start with Godello. If you drink Pinot Noir, start with Mencía from Bierzo or Ribeira Sacra. If you drink Shiraz or Cabernet, start with Tempranillo from Rioja or Toro. Where it helps, a wine's card compares it to Australian or French wines you already know.
What does Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva actually mean?
They are ageing rules, not quality grades, though in practice they correlate. In Rioja, a Crianza red has spent at least two years ageing with a minimum of one in oak barrel. A Reserva has spent at least three years with a minimum of one in barrel. A Gran Reserva has spent at least five years with a minimum of two in barrel. A wine with no ageing term on the label is a Genérico or joven, released young and fresh. More oak is not automatically better. It is a style choice, and plenty of the best modern Rioja is deliberately released without a Crianza label.
Is Cava just Spanish Champagne?
No. Cava is made by the traditional method, the same second fermentation in bottle used in Champagne, from Spanish grapes: Macabeo, Xarel·lo and Parellada. It is a designation defined by method, not by a single place. In 2019 a group of the best Penedès growers, Recaredo among them, left the Cava DO entirely and created Corpinnat: 100% organic, hand harvested, estate grown, minimum eighteen months on lees. If you have only had supermarket Cava, a Corpinnat is a completely different proposition.
What is a DO, a DOCa and a DOQ?
They are Spain's protected origin designations, roughly equivalent to France's AOC. DO (Denominación de Origen) is the standard tier and covers most Spanish wine regions. DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada) is the tier above it, awarded to regions with a longer record of quality and stricter rules. Only two regions hold it: Rioja and Priorat, the latter using the Catalan spelling DOQ. Below DO sit Vino de la Tierra and IGP wines, which are not lesser by definition. Plenty of Spain's most interesting producers work outside the DO system deliberately.
How is this list different from other Spanish wine lists in Melbourne?
Most Spanish sections in Melbourne restaurants run to a Cava, a Rioja, an Albariño and a Ribera del Duero. This is seventy-eight bottles across twenty-three regions, including places that almost never appear on an Australian list at all: Ribeira Sacra, Bizkaiko Txakolina, Cebreros, Monterrei, Manchuela, Mallorca. Several of the growers here make a few thousand bottles a year. The list is deep in a few directions on purpose, with twenty-two Rioja and eight from Rías Baixas, so you can taste a village or a grape properly instead of sampling one of everything.
How do I pronounce these names?
There is a full pronunciation guide further down this page covering all thirty-nine grape varieties, every term you will see on a Spanish label, and each producer on the list. Stressed syllables are capitalised. One thing worth knowing: in Spain, z and soft c are said like the th in ‘thing’, so Zárate is THA-ra-te. Catalan, Galician and Basque names follow their own rules, which is why Xarel·lo is sha-REL-lo and txakoli is cha-ko-LEE.
Why does a bottle here cost more than at a bottle shop?
Restaurant pricing covers glassware, storage, staff who have tasted everything on the list, and the risk of holding stock that may sit for a year before the right person orders it. What it buys you here is access to wines that mostly do not reach Australian retail at all. Where a bottle sits alongside something famous and far more expensive, the note on that wine says so plainly.
Do you have wine by the glass?
Yes. The by-the-glass selection and our sherry list rotate regularly and are not shown on this page, so ask when you sit down. Every bottle here is available in the restaurant and the wine bar.
Can I bring my own wine?
BYO is Tuesday to Thursday, and corkage is $30 a bottle. If you are bringing something special, mention it when you book and we will have the right glasses ready.

Come and drink some of it

The list changes. The by-the-glass selection and the sherries change more often still. Book a table on Gertrude Street and let us pour you something you have never heard of.

Wine list current as at October 2026. Vintages change as bottles run out. All prices are per bottle in Australian dollars.