Beyond the glass
The Anada Spanish Wine List
What is open by the glass tonight is on the board. This is everything else: seventy-eight bottles on the page, and close to a hundred Spanish wines in the building once you count the sherries and the pours. Very little of it appears anywhere else in Melbourne, and none of it is here by accident.
- The biggest vineyard on earth. Spain has more land under vine than any other country.
- Vines that outlived the plague. Phylloxera never took hold in Spain’s sandiest soils, so it still farms ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines. France lost hers to the plague in the 1870s and had to replant from scratch.
- Older than the rulebook. Some bottles below come off vines older than Spain’s wine laws.
- Atlantic rain to bare slate. Twenty-three regions, from the green of Galicia to the terraces of Priorat and the sun of Andalucía.
- Every wine, explained. A tasting note, a plain-English guide to the place it comes from, a way to say it out loud, and what it stands beside.
Search it, filter it, or just scroll. If you would rather we chose for you, say so at the table. That is the better option and we will never be offended.
Espumoso Sparkling
Cava and Corpinnat. Spain's answer to Champagne, made the same way.
Penedès3 wines
2022 Lacrima Baccus Brut Nature Cava
Bone-dry Cava. Nothing added back after the bubbles.
$80bottle
2022 Lacrima Baccus Brut Nature Cava
Bone-dry Cava. Nothing added back after the bubbles.
Green apple, lemon pith, a little toasted almond from the lees. Chalky and very dry at the finish.
If you drink French
Made the Champagne way, second fermentation in the bottle. Leaner and less bready.
Say it LA-kree-ma BA-koos
2021 Lacrima Baccus Brut Nature Rosado Cava
Pink Cava, zero dosage.
$80bottle
2021 Lacrima Baccus Brut Nature Rosado Cava
Pink Cava, zero dosage.
Garnacha and Pinot Noir, pale copper in the glass. Wild strawberry and blood orange, then dried herbs. Tart, clean finish.
Say it LA-kree-ma BA-koos
2019 Recaredo Corpinnat ‘Terrers’ Brut Nature
Corpinnat, not Cava. Xarel·lo, years on lees, zero dosage.
$175bottle
2019 Recaredo Corpinnat ‘Terrers’ Brut Nature
Corpinnat, not Cava. Xarel·lo, years on lees, zero dosage.
Baked apple, lemon curd, hazelnut, a whiff of smoke. The bubbles are more mist than fizz and the finish is long and salty. Severe, in the best sense.
If you drink French
Grower Champagne is the reference. Same obsession with estate fruit and long ageing, drier and more mineral.
Why it’s on the list
Recaredo is one of the houses that left DO Cava in 2019 to form Corpinnat: organic, hand-picked, estate fruit, long lees ageing. This is what that standard tastes like.
Say it rre-ka-RE-doo kor-pee-NAT te-RRERS
Rosado Rosé
Spanish pink is not Provence pink. It has colour, grip and something to say.
Rioja3 wines
2023 Sierra del Toloño Rosado
Rioja rosado with grip.
$70bottle
2023 Sierra del Toloño Rosado
Rioja rosado with grip.
Redcurrant, pink grapefruit, crushed herbs, a stony edge. Dry, faintly bitter at the end, the way good European rosé is.
If you drink French
Provence drinkers: same pale colour, more texture, less peach.
Say it SYE-rra del to-LO-nyo
2024 Manuel Quintano ‘Labastida’ Rosado
Pale, young Garnacha. Drink it this year.
$80bottle
2024 Manuel Quintano ‘Labastida’ Rosado
Pale, young Garnacha. Drink it this year.
White peach, wild strawberry, orange zest and a chalky, almost salty close. Light, with a little roundness in the middle.
If you drink Australian
Barossa Grenache rosé, from cooler, higher vineyards. Less weight, more snap.
Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no la-bas-TEE-da
2024 Bodegas Exopto Rosado
Darker rosado, closer to a light red.
$85bottle
2024 Bodegas Exopto Rosado
Darker rosado, closer to a light red.
Raspberry, pomegranate, dried thyme and something almost meaty. It has grip, and it is better with food than without. Still good on day two.
If you drink French
The darker pinks of Marsannay or the Loire.
Say it bo-DE-gas ek-SOP-to
Penedès1 wine
2022 Entre Vinyes Oníric Pet-Nat Rosado
Cloudy, softly fizzy Garnacha.
$100bottle
2022 Entre Vinyes Oníric Pet-Nat Rosado
Cloudy, softly fizzy Garnacha.
Pet-nat: it finished fermenting in the bottle, so there is a haze and the fizz is soft and a bit unruly. Sour cherry, blood orange, something bready from the lees. Low alcohol, bone dry.
If you drink Australian
The same idea as the Adelaide Hills and Gippsland pet-nats, with more red berry and less green apple.
Say it EN-tre VEE-nyes o-NEE-reek
Ribera del Duero1 wine
2020 Pícaro del Águila ‘Clarete’
Red and white grapes fermented together. An old Castilian habit.
$120bottle
2020 Pícaro del Águila ‘Clarete’
Red and white grapes fermented together. An old Castilian habit.
Clarete is the old Castilian way of making pink wine. Deep pink, with sour cherry, orange peel, white pepper and an earthy note. It has real tannin and drinks like a light red. Five years old and still fresh.
If you drink French
The pale reds of the Jura, or old-school Chinon.
Say it PEE-ka-ro del A-gee-la kla-RE-te Gui is a hard g with silent u: 'A-gee-la', never 'a-GWEE-la'.
Blanco White
Atlantic Galicia, high Castilian plains, and the whites of Rioja that nobody talks about.
Rías Baixas8 wines
2024 Ophalum Albariño
The easy way into Albariño.
$95bottle
2024 Ophalum Albariño
The easy way into Albariño.
Green apple, white peach, grapefruit pith and a salty snap at the end. Dry, a little waxy, mouthwatering.
If you drink Australian
Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc drinkers: same citrus lift, with stone fruit and sea salt in place of passionfruit.
Say it o-FA-loom
2024 Terras Gauda ‘Abadía de San Campio’
The perfumed Albariño.
$100bottle
2024 Terras Gauda ‘Abadía de San Campio’
The perfumed Albariño.
Orange blossom, white peach, honeysuckle. Drier and firmer in the mouth than the nose suggests, with a powdery texture and a salty finish.
Say it TE-rras GOW-da a-ba-DEE-a de san KAM-pyo
2024 Nanclares y Prieto ‘Tempus Vivendi’
Leaner, saltier Albariño. Also poured by the glass.
$115bottle
2024 Nanclares y Prieto ‘Tempus Vivendi’
Leaner, saltier Albariño. Also poured by the glass.
Lemon rind, green almond, crushed oyster shell. Textured, close to chewy, and long.
If you drink French
If you drink Chablis, start here. Same austerity, more salt.
Say it nan-KLA-res ee PRYE-to TEM-poos bee-BEN-dee
2024 Santiago Ruiz ‘O Rosal’
An O Rosal blend: Albariño with local aromatic grapes.
$120bottle
2024 Santiago Ruiz ‘O Rosal’
An O Rosal blend: Albariño with local aromatic grapes.
O Rosal is the subzone on the Portuguese border where Albariño is blended, not bottled alone. Pear, lime blossom, fennel, green herbs. Dry and taut, with a faint bitter twist that clears the palate.
If you drink Australian
Clare Riesling, softer in acid and wider in flavour.
Say it san-TYA-go rroo-EETH o rro-SAL
2023 Bodegas Pentecostés Albariño
A year older than the other Albariños, and broader for it.
$125bottle
2023 Bodegas Pentecostés Albariño
A year older than the other Albariños, and broader for it.
Baked pear, preserved lemon, a waxy edge, Atlantic salt underneath. The acid has softened into something silky.
If you drink Australian
Think of what a couple of years does to Hunter Semillon.
Say it bo-DE-gas pen-te-kos-TES
2024 Terras Gauda ‘O Rosal’
Albariño, Loureiro and Caíño Blanco.
$130bottle
2024 Terras Gauda ‘O Rosal’
Albariño, Loureiro and Caíño Blanco.
Loureiro brings bay leaf and white flowers, Caíño Blanco the bite. Nectarine, grapefruit pith, a chalky grip, a salty end. Fuller than most Rías Baixas.
If you drink French
Lees-aged Muscadet for the salt and grip, though this is riper and far more floral.
Say it TE-rras GOW-da o rro-SAL
2022 Zárate Albariño
Val do Salnés Albariño with three years on it.
$145bottle
2022 Zárate Albariño
Val do Salnés Albariño with three years on it.
Salnés is the subzone closest to the Atlantic, and this is the tight, salty end of the grape. Green apple, lemon oil, wax and crushed stone from bottle age. No oak.
Why it’s on the list
Proof that Albariño ages. Three years on, it is only opening up.
Say it THA-ra-te Z is a Spanish 'th'; Galician locals often soften it toward 's'.
2024 Nanclares y Prieto ‘Soverribas’
One parcel of 45-year-old vines, from the house we pour by the glass.
$170bottle
2024 Nanclares y Prieto ‘Soverribas’
One parcel of 45-year-old vines, from the house we pour by the glass.
Raised in large neutral oak, so the wood adds breadth and no flavour. Lemon curd, quince, beeswax, and acid with the crunch of good Chenin. It sits still in the glass and keeps going after you swallow.
If you drink French
Savennières. Same beeswax and quince, same firm acid, sea salt where Savennières gives you wool.
Why it’s on the list
Tempus Vivendi is the blend. This is the same hands on one old parcel, which is where Albariño stops being a fresh white and becomes a serious one.
Say it nan-KLAH-res ee pree-EH-toh, so-veh-REE-bas
Rioja4 wines
2023 Manuel Quintano Blanco
Unoaked white Rioja.
$95bottle
2023 Manuel Quintano Blanco
Unoaked white Rioja.
Viura on its own, no barrel. Green apple, pear skin, fennel, and a chalky dryness that builds as you drink. Quiet on the nose, more interesting in the mouth.
If you drink French
Closest to a dry Loire Chenin: apple and chalk, nothing shouting.
Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no
2018 Familia Chávarri ‘Larchago’ Blanco
An eight-year-old white Rioja.
$110bottle
2018 Familia Chávarri ‘Larchago’ Blanco
An eight-year-old white Rioja.
Age is the point. The green apple has become baked apple and quince, with honey, toasted nuts and a waxy texture only years in bottle produce. Gentle and long.
If you drink Australian
Aged Clare or Eden Valley Riesling, with nuts in place of lime.
Why it’s on the list
Most whites on a list are eighteen months old. This one is eight, and it needed every year.
Say it fa-MEE-lya CHA-ba-rree lar-CHA-go
2021 Luis Cañas Blanco
Viura for the frame, Malvasía for the perfume.
$105bottle
2021 Luis Cañas Blanco
Viura for the frame, Malvasía for the perfume.
White flowers, ripe pear, orange peel. A soft, slightly oily texture and a dry finish. It has settled well with five years on it.
If you drink French
Cassis or Bandol blanc: perfume, gentle weight, a saline landing.
Say it loo-EES KA-nyas
2022 Bodegas Exopto ‘El Bernate’ Blanco
Malvasía on its own. Almost nobody bottles it this way.
$125bottle
2022 Bodegas Exopto ‘El Bernate’ Blanco
Malvasía on its own. Almost nobody bottles it this way.
Usually the junior partner in white Rioja. Alone it is all dried apricot, orange peel, ginger and white flowers, waxy and mouth-coating. It smells sweet and is not. The finish is bitter citrus.
If you drink Australian
Canberra Viognier for the apricot and the oily texture, but drier and more bitter at the end.
Say it bo-DE-gas ek-SOP-to el ber-NA-te
Rueda3 wines
2024 Cuatro Rayas Organic Verdejo
Organic Verdejo from Rueda.
$70bottle
2024 Cuatro Rayas Organic Verdejo
Organic Verdejo from Rueda.
Grapefruit and lime, then the bitter-almond finish Verdejo always has. Light, dry, best very cold.
If you drink Australian
Closest to Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc, with less passionfruit.
Say it KWA-tro RRA-yas
2024 Ángel Rodríguez ‘Martínsancho’
The old-vine Verdejo that kept the grape alive in Rueda.
$75bottle
2024 Ángel Rodríguez ‘Martínsancho’
The old-vine Verdejo that kept the grape alive in Rueda.
Lemon zest, quince, green almond and a bitter-herb finish more fennel seed than cut grass. Firmer and longer than most Rueda. It will age.
If you drink Australian
Young Hunter Semillon is the right comparison: citrus, a lanolin thread, built for a few years.
Why it’s on the list
Ángel Rodríguez kept old-vine Verdejo alive in Rueda. Martínsancho is that wine, and still the reference point.
Say it AN-hel rro-DREE-geth mar-teen-SAN-cho Ángel's g is throaty, like Scottish loch: 'AN-hel', not 'AN-jel'.
2023 Miguel Arroyo Izquierdo ‘Demimo’
Verdejo with a year or two on it.
$80bottle
2023 Miguel Arroyo Izquierdo ‘Demimo’
Verdejo with a year or two on it.
Rueda is usually drunk in its first summer. Given time, the grapefruit softens into quince and dried herbs and a lanolin note arrives. The bitter almond keeps it upright.
If you drink French
Dry white Graves, leaner and more herbal.
Say it mee-GEL a-RRO-yo eeth-KYER-do de-MEE-mo
Penedès2 wines
2022 Entre Vinyes Oníric Pet-Nat Blanc
Cloudy, grapey pet-nat.
$100bottle
2022 Entre Vinyes Oníric Pet-Nat Blanc
Cloudy, grapey pet-nat.
Muscat for orange blossom and grape skin, Macabeo to keep it dry. Soft, foamy bubbles, closer to cider than Champagne. Pour it cloudy.
If you drink French
A pétillant naturel from Touraine, drier and more perfumed.
Say it EN-tre VEE-nyes o-NEE-reek
2022 Entre Vinyes Oníric ‘Sotaterra’ (skin contact)
Macabeo left on its skins. Amber, with grip.
$110bottle
2022 Entre Vinyes Oníric ‘Sotaterra’ (skin contact)
Macabeo left on its skins. Amber, with grip.
The skins give colour and a light tannin, like cold tea. Dried apricot, quince, orange peel, a bitter herbal edge. One of the few whites with a tannic tug at the finish.
If you drink Australian
Further down the road than the Adelaide Hills skin-contact whites: deeper colour, more tea leaf.
Say it EN-tre VEE-nyes o-NEE-reek so-ta-TE-rra
Monterrei2 wines
2020 Quinta da Muradella ‘Candea’ Blanco
Three Galician grapes you have probably never met.
$90bottle
2020 Quinta da Muradella ‘Candea’ Blanco
Three Galician grapes you have probably never met.
Doña Blanca, Treixadura and Verdello from Monterrei, on the Portuguese border. Green apple and lemon pith, then chamomile, crushed stone and beeswax with air. Five years old and still tight.
Why it’s on the list
José Luis Mateo has spent his career bringing back Galician grapes nobody else wanted. Candea is where that work starts.
Say it KEEN-ta da moo-ra-DEL-ya kan-DE-a Galician-Portuguese: 'da', not 'de'; -lla is 'lya' as in million.
2023 Adegas Valmiñor ‘Minius’
Godello, for anyone who finds Albariño a bit shrill.
$110bottle
2023 Adegas Valmiñor ‘Minius’
Godello, for anyone who finds Albariño a bit shrill.
Ripe pear, white peach, lime, almond skin. Real weight, unoaked, with a clean salty finish.
If you drink Australian
Mornington Chardonnay with the oak dialled right back.
Say it a-DE-gas bal-mee-NYOR MEE-nyoos Adegas is Galician for bodegas: 'a-DE-gas', not 'bo-DE-gas'.
Bierzo2 wines
2022 Mengoba ‘Brezo’ Blanco
Godello and Doña Blanca from Bierzo.
$135bottle
2022 Mengoba ‘Brezo’ Blanco
Godello and Doña Blanca from Bierzo.
Pear, white peach, a lick of hazelnut, and weight without any oak taste. Doña Blanca adds acid and a herbal edge so it never goes soft. Creamy in the middle, stony at the end.
Say it men-GO-ba BRE-tho
2024 Castro Ventosa ‘El Val’ Godello
Poured blind against Chassagne-Montrachet, the table called this one the Burgundy.
$270bottle
2024 Castro Ventosa ‘El Val’ Godello
Poured blind against Chassagne-Montrachet, the table called this one the Burgundy.
Godello from Bierzo, where the Pérez family have grown grapes since the 1750s. Pear, white peach, hazelnut from the lees, and a mineral line the whole way through. Dry, broad, and it keeps going.
If you drink French
Chassagne-Montrachet. Not a figure of speech, see above.
Say it KAS-troh ven-TOH-sa, el BAL
Valdeorras2 wines
2023 Viña Somoza ‘Neno’ Sobre Lías
Godello from Valdeorras, aged on its lees.
$90bottle
2023 Viña Somoza ‘Neno’ Sobre Lías
Godello from Valdeorras, aged on its lees.
Sobre lías: it sat on its spent yeast, and you can taste it in the soft, creamy weight around lemon and green pear. The slate gives a dry, flinty finish.
If you drink Australian
Leaner Yarra Chardonnay, minus the vanilla and butter.
Say it BEE-nya so-MO-tha NE-no
2024 Rafael Palacios ‘As Sortes’
The benchmark for Godello.
$300bottle
2024 Rafael Palacios ‘As Sortes’
The benchmark for Godello.
Six parcels, under four hectares between them, vines forty to fifty years old, each fermented separately in oak vats. White peach, lemon oil, toasted almond, a chalky grip, and a salty finish that runs past where you expect it to stop. Dense and quiet.
If you drink French
Meursault, for the breadth and the slow reveal. Drier and more mineral.
Why it’s on the list
Rafael Palacios left his family's Priorat estate to make white wine in Valdeorras. This is the wine that decision was for.
Say it ra-fa-EL pa-LA-thyos, ass SOR-tess
Bizkaiko Txakolina1 wine
2024 Gorrondona Txakoli
Basque coast white. Salty, spritzy, low alcohol.
$80bottle
2024 Gorrondona Txakoli
Basque coast white. Salty, spritzy, low alcohol.
Green apple, lime, sea salt and a faint prickle on the tongue. Very high acid, short and clean. Built for a second glass.
If you drink French
Muscadet drinkers will be at home, with a little more citrus and some spritz.
Say it go-rron-DO-na cha-ko-LEE Basque tx is 'ch'; the region is 'bees-KY-ko cha-ko-LEE-na'.
Cebreros1 wine
2023 El Galayo Blanco ‘Especial’ (skin contact)
Albillo Real on its skins, from the Gredos.
$75bottle
2023 El Galayo Blanco ‘Especial’ (skin contact)
Albillo Real on its skins, from the Gredos.
A light tannin grip without tipping into cider. Apricot skin, mountain herbs, orange peel, and the dryness of granite country. Treat it as a light red.
If you drink Australian
A calmer relative of the Basket Range skin-contact wines. Herbs and stone fruit, not funk.
Say it el ga-LA-yo es-pe-THYAL
Jumilla1 wine
2024 Bodega Cerrón ‘Remordimiento’ Blanco
Chardonnay from Jumilla. Remordimiento means regret.
$85bottle
2024 Bodega Cerrón ‘Remordimiento’ Blanco
Chardonnay from Jumilla. Remordimiento means regret.
Grown high on the Jumilla plateau, where the nights turn cold, in the middle of Monastrell country. Nectarine, lemon curd, white blossom, no oak. Rounder than cool-climate Chardonnay, with a citrus line underneath.
If you drink French
Limoux, where France grows Chardonnay in the sun.
Say it bo-DE-ga theh-RRON rre-mor-dee-MYEN-to Peninsular c is 'th'; Latin Americans would say 'seh-RRON'.
Terra Alta1 wine
2023 Edetària ‘Via Terra’ Blanc
Garnatxa Blanca from Terra Alta.
$70bottle
2023 Edetària ‘Via Terra’ Blanc
Garnatxa Blanca from Terra Alta.
Not very aromatic, but wide and satisfying once it is in your mouth. Green apple, fennel, grapefruit pith, a soft creamy weight. It finishes on bitter herbs and salt.
If you drink French
The southern Rhône calls this grape Grenache Blanc. Terra Alta gives it more freshness.
Why it’s on the list
Terra Alta grows more Garnacha Blanca than anywhere in the world.
Say it e-de-TA-ree-a BEE-a TE-rra BLANG Catalan: the final -c in Blanc is swallowed, closer to 'blang'.
Priorat1 wine
2023 Terroir al Límit ‘Històric’ Blanc
White Priorat. The region makes almost none.
$135bottle
2023 Terroir al Límit ‘Històric’ Blanc
White Priorat. The region makes almost none.
Yellow plum, fennel, dried hillside herbs and a chalky line from the black slate. Weight without fat. Long, and slightly bitter at the end.
If you drink French
White Châteauneuf-du-Pape, leaner and stonier.
Say it te-RWAR al LEE-meet ees-TO-reek BLANG Catalan: H in Històric is silent; final t in Límit barely sounds.
Tinto Red
Two thirds of the list. Mencía and Garnacha at the light end, Toro and Priorat at the other.
Rioja15 wines
2024 Bodegas Exopto Tinto
Young, purple Rioja with Graciano in it.
$85bottle
2024 Bodegas Exopto Tinto
Young, purple Rioja with Graciano in it.
Blackberry, violets, and a twist of black pepper from the Graciano. Garnacha rounds the middle, Tempranillo gives it bones. Still all fruit.
If you drink French
Crozes-Hermitage drinkers: same pepper and weight, softer tannin.
Say it bo-DE-gas ek-SOP-to
2024 Artuke Tinto
Whole-bunch Rioja Alavesa, no oak.
$95bottle
2024 Artuke Tinto
Whole-bunch Rioja Alavesa, no oak.
Fermented the old Alavesa way, whole bunches, so it arrives vivid: crushed raspberry, liquorice, violets. Tannin barely there. Juicy.
If you drink French
Cru Beaujolais made the same way, with more earth and none of the banana.
Say it ar-TOO-ke
2021 Manuel Quintano ‘Labastida’ Crianza
Crianza from Labastida.
$80bottle
2021 Manuel Quintano ‘Labastida’ Crianza
Crianza from Labastida.
At least a year in barrel and two years before release. Red cherry, dried strawberry, vanilla, cedar and a leathery note at the back. Soft tannin, dusty finish. Rioja with no make-up on.
If you drink Australian
Coonawarra Cabernet for the cedar and the cut, with red fruit instead of cassis.
Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no la-bas-TEE-da
2023 Manuel Quintano ‘Q de Quintano’
Labastida Tempranillo before the barrel.
$90bottle
2023 Manuel Quintano ‘Q de Quintano’
Labastida Tempranillo before the barrel.
Red plum, morello cherry, a tomato-leaf greenness that is very Tempranillo, and a chalky finish. Bright, with fine tannin. It costs more than the Crianza because you are paying for fruit, not barrel time.
If you drink Australian
King Valley Sangiovese, with more flesh in the middle.
Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no, KOO de keen-TA-no The letter Q is 'koo' in Spanish, so 'KOO de keen-TA-no'.
2021 Manuel Quintano ‘El Pionero’
Named for the man who first brought Bordeaux barrels into Rioja, in the 1790s.
$90bottle
2021 Manuel Quintano ‘El Pionero’
Named for the man who first brought Bordeaux barrels into Rioja, in the 1790s.
Oak has been part of Labastida since that experiment, and here it seasons the wine without covering it. Dark cherry, dried fig, cedar, tobacco leaf. Firm tannin, long smoky finish.
If you drink French
Right Bank Bordeaux, which suits the history. Tempranillo finishes drier and dustier than Merlot.
Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no el pyo-NE-ro
2020 Marqués de Vargas Reserva
Classical Rioja Reserva. Polished, not heavy.
$125bottle
2020 Marqués de Vargas Reserva
Classical Rioja Reserva. Polished, not heavy.
Mostly Tempranillo, with Mazuelo and Garnacha, close to two years in oak. Cherry, blackberry, sweet spice, vanilla, tobacco, a balsamic thread. Silky tannin, long finish.
Why it’s on the list
Order it next to the Conde de San Cristóbal and taste Rioja and Ribera side by side. Rioja first, or the Ribera walks over it.
Say it mar-KESS deh VAR-gas
2018 Manuel Quintano ‘Labastida’ Reserva
Eight-year-old Reserva, ready to drink.
$130bottle
2018 Manuel Quintano ‘Labastida’ Reserva
Eight-year-old Reserva, ready to drink.
Three years minimum before release, one in barrel, and 2018 was a cool year in Rioja, so it arrives fresh. Dried cherry, orange peel, leather, tobacco, forest floor. Tannin gone to silk.
If you drink French
Aged Bandol, softer and more perfumed.
Say it ma-NWEL keen-TA-no la-bas-TEE-da
2021 Valenciso ‘Laderas de Cabama’
Hillside Tempranillo from Valenciso. Perfume first.
$95bottle
2021 Valenciso ‘Laderas de Cabama’
Hillside Tempranillo from Valenciso. Perfume first.
Laderas means slopes. Red cherry, wild strawberry, dried rose and a cool chalky line. Fine, powdery tannin. Clean, stony finish.
If you drink Australian
Mornington Pinot drinkers will follow this easily. Dustier, more earth.
Say it ba-len-THEE-so la-DE-ras de ka-BA-ma
2020 López de Haro ‘El Pacto’
Modern Rioja. Dark, glossy, oak-forward.
$130bottle
2020 López de Haro ‘El Pacto’
Modern Rioja. Dark, glossy, oak-forward.
Black cherry, blueberry, mocha and toasted spice from the barrel. Plush tannin, warm finish. Less leather and dried fruit than the traditional style, more polish.
If you drink Australian
Modern McLaren Vale Shiraz, but Tempranillo's acid keeps the finish dry.
Say it LO-peth de A-ro el PAK-to H is always silent in Spanish: Haro is 'A-ro'.
2020 López de Haro ‘San Vicente de la Sonsierra’
A village Rioja: every grape from San Vicente de la Sonsierra.
$135bottle
2020 López de Haro ‘San Vicente de la Sonsierra’
A village Rioja: every grape from San Vicente de la Sonsierra.
Rioja only recently allowed a single village on the label. San Vicente sits high on the north bank of the Ebro and the wine shows it: red and black cherry, dried herbs, iron. Firmer and cooler than most Rioja, long and mineral.
If you drink French
Saint-Joseph, for the hillside fruit and the mineral spine.
Say it LO-peth de A-ro, san bee-THEN-te de la son-SYE-rra
2020 Valenciso ‘Cemento’
Tempranillo raised in concrete. No oak at all.
$160bottle
2020 Valenciso ‘Cemento’
Tempranillo raised in concrete. No oak at all.
No vanilla, no cedar, no smoke. Dark cherry, plum, dried thyme and a wet-stone coolness. Firm, chalky tannin. A long, clean finish.
Why it’s on the list
Almost nobody in Rioja makes a serious red without barrels. This is Tempranillo with nothing between you and the fruit.
Say it ba-len-THEE-so the-MEN-to
2020 Valenciso Reserva
The wine Valenciso built its name on.
$185bottle
2020 Valenciso Reserva
The wine Valenciso built its name on.
The classic Rioja Alta reading of Reserva. Red cherry, dried orange, cedar, sweet tobacco, leather. Tannin polished to silk, and a finish that keeps unfolding.
If you drink French
Village Gevrey-Chambertin, for the silk and the depth.
Say it ba-len-THEE-so
2019 La Rioja Alta ‘Viña Ardanza’ Reserva
Made since 1942, and the method has barely moved.
$210bottle
2019 La Rioja Alta ‘Viña Ardanza’ Reserva
Made since 1942, and the method has barely moved.
Tempranillo with a good share of Garnacha, years in used American oak, racked by hand every six months. Strawberry, dried fig, cedar and a curl of coconut off the old barrels. Silky, and open now.
If you drink French
Châteauneuf with some age, for the Garnacha warmth. The American oak takes it somewhere French wine does not go.
Why it’s on the list
A reference bottle. If someone at the table wants to understand traditional Rioja, open this, then the Arana beside it.
Say it la ree-OH-hah AL-ta, VEEN-ya ar-DAN-tha
2017 La Rioja Alta ‘Viña Arana’ Gran Reserva
Gran Reserva. The structured one.
$255bottle
2017 La Rioja Alta ‘Viña Arana’ Gran Reserva
Gran Reserva. The structured one.
Tempranillo with Graciano, all in used oak, held back years in barrel and bottle before release. Dried cherry, tobacco leaf, leather, a balsamic edge. Drier and firmer than the Ardanza.
If you drink French
Left Bank Bordeaux at ten or twelve years old.
Why it’s on the list
Ardanza is the generous half of traditional Rioja, Arana the serious one. Side by side, they are the quickest education in the region there is.
Say it la ree-OH-hah AL-ta, VEEN-ya a-RA-na
2022 Artuke ‘El Escolladero’
Single-site Alavesa, planted in the 1950s.
$320bottle
2022 Artuke ‘El Escolladero’
Single-site Alavesa, planted in the 1950s.
Mostly Tempranillo with Graciano, a small share of new French oak. Black fruit, cracked pepper, olive, iron, and a floral lift. Fine, long tannin.
If you drink French
Cornas and Saint-Joseph, plainly.
Why it’s on the list
Arturo de Miguel is the winemaker Rioja is talking about, and this site is where that reputation comes from. The least Rioja-tasting Rioja on the list.
Say it ar-TOO-keh, es-ko-ya-DEH-roh
Toro5 wines
2022 Estancia Piedra ‘Joven Ecológico’
Young, organic Toro.
$80bottle
2022 Estancia Piedra ‘Joven Ecológico’
Young, organic Toro.
Tinta de Toro is Tempranillo grown hotter and higher, with thicker skins. Joven means no barrel, so this is the grape as it is: blackberry, black plum, liquorice, violet. Dense, with chewy tannin.
If you drink Australian
Heathcote Shiraz drinkers will feel at home. Firmer and drier.
Say it es-TAN-thya PYE-dra HO-ben e-ko-LO-hee-ko Joven's j is throaty, like Scottish loch: 'HO-ben', not 'JOH-ven'.
2021 Estancia Piedra ‘Crianza Ecológico’
Organic Toro, with time in oak.
$105bottle
2021 Estancia Piedra ‘Crianza Ecológico’
Organic Toro, with time in oak.
Black plum, dried fig, leather, cocoa from the barrel, and a little Garnacha lifting the middle. Warm and full, tannin that grips and then lets go.
If you drink French
Gigondas, denser and more leathery.
Say it es-TAN-thya PYE-dra e-ko-LO-hee-ko
2022 Matsu ‘El Pícaro’
Young Toro. Big, and ready tonight.
$85bottle
2022 Matsu ‘El Pícaro’
Young Toro. Big, and ready tonight.
Close to opaque. Blackberry, violets, smoke, with a short spell in barrel. Plush, with fine tannin. Dark plum and black pepper at the end.
If you drink Australian
Barossa Shiraz, fresher and drier.
Say it MA-tsoo el PEE-ka-ro
2021 Matsu ‘El Recio’
El Pícaro's older sibling. Older vines, more barrel.
$120bottle
2021 Matsu ‘El Recio’
El Pícaro's older sibling. Older vines, more barrel.
Black cherry, dried herbs, cedar, smoke. Firm through the middle, and the fruit is ripe enough to carry it. Liquorice and tobacco to finish.
If you drink French
A good Madiran, warmer and rounder.
Say it MA-tsoo el RRE-thyo
2018 Telmo Rodríguez ‘Dehesa Gago’
Telmo Rodríguez's Toro. Fruit, not oak.
$145bottle
2018 Telmo Rodríguez ‘Dehesa Gago’
Telmo Rodríguez's Toro. Fruit, not oak.
Black cherry, blackberry, dried thyme, graphite. Nimble for Toro, with tannin sanded down by seven years in bottle. Dry and stony to finish.
Why it’s on the list
Telmo Rodríguez made his name reviving forgotten Spanish vineyards. This one is already seven years old, which is the expensive part.
Say it TEL-mo rro-DREE-geth de-E-sa GA-go Silent h inside Dehesa: say 'de-E-sa', two clean vowels.
Bierzo4 wines
2023 César Márquez ‘Parajes’
Start here if you have never had Mencía.
$90bottle
2023 César Márquez ‘Parajes’
Start here if you have never had Mencía.
Picture Cabernet Franc grown somewhere cooler and stonier. Red cherry, raspberry, violet, black pepper, something leafy. Fine, dusty tannin and bright acid. Mineral at the end.
If you drink French
Chinon is the reference, with more stone and pepper from the Bierzo slate.
Why it’s on the list
César Márquez is of the Pérez family behind Castro Ventosa, the house that makes the El Val Godello on this list.
Say it THE-sar MAR-keth pa-RA-hes
2023 Mengoba ‘Brezo’ Tinto
Juicy, peppery Bierzo red.
$75bottle
2023 Mengoba ‘Brezo’ Tinto
Juicy, peppery Bierzo red.
Mencía for red cherry and pepper. Garnacha Tintorera, one of the few grapes with red flesh, for colour and plummy depth. Soft tannin, a lick of liquorice, fresh finish.
If you drink French
Morgon, with a little more colour.
Say it men-GO-ba BRE-tho
2022 Bodegas Pittacum ‘Petit Pittacum’
Mencía about fruit and soil.
$90bottle
2022 Bodegas Pittacum ‘Petit Pittacum’
Mencía about fruit and soil.
Dark cherry, pomegranate, dried herbs, and graphite like wet stone. Firm, fine tannin. Closer to bitter cherry than jam at the end.
If you drink French
Saumur-Champigny, grown on slate instead of limestone.
Say it bo-DE-gas PEE-ta-koom, pe-TEET PEE-ta-koom
2019 Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Villa de Corullón’
The wine that made people take Bierzo seriously.
$155bottle
2019 Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Villa de Corullón’
The wine that made people take Bierzo seriously.
From the steep slate slopes above Corullón. Black cherry, dried rose, graphite, iron, smoke. Tight, polished tannin, oak folded in. Only beginning to open, with a decade ahead of it.
If you drink French
Côte-Rôtie, for the slopes and the iron. Less floral, more mineral.
Say it des-then-DYEN-tes de HO-ta pa-LA-thyos, BEE-ya de ko-roo-YON The J. is said 'HO-ta'; Castilian ll sounds like the y in 'yes'.
Ribeira Sacra3 wines
2022 Guímaro Tinto (Joven)
Mencía off the cliffs above the Sil.
$100bottle
2022 Guímaro Tinto (Joven)
Mencía off the cliffs above the Sil.
Ribeira Sacra's terraces are steep enough that every grape is picked by hand. Pale and floral: sour cherry, cranberry, violets, crushed stone. No oak, little tannin, almost salty at the end.
If you drink Australian
Gippsland Pinot drinkers: same weight, more stone.
Say it GEE-ma-ro Gui is a hard g, u silent: 'GEE-' as in 'geese'.
2020 Guímaro ‘Camiño Real’
One parcel, five years in bottle.
$165bottle
2020 Guímaro ‘Camiño Real’
One parcel, five years in bottle.
The step up from the young Guímaro. Black cherry, damson, dried flowers, wet stone, a thread of smoke. Still tightly wound, and it unfolds over an evening.
If you drink French
Volnay, for the perfume and length. Cooler and saltier.
Say it GEE-ma-ro ka-MEE-nyo rre-AL
2019 Sílice ‘Finca Lobeiras’
One barrel. Roughly six hundred bottles. Eighteen came to Australia.
$365bottle
2019 Sílice ‘Finca Lobeiras’
One barrel. Roughly six hundred bottles. Eighteen came to Australia.
A single plot on the terraces above the Sil, Mencía fermented whole bunch. Red cherry, cranberry, blood orange, a bitter Campari edge, stem spice. Light on its feet. Held in bottle for years before release.
Why it’s on the list
It is on the list because you are unlikely to see it again.
Say it SEE-lee-theh, FEEN-ka lo-BAY-ras
Jumilla3 wines
2018 Familia Pacheco Organic Monastrell
Seven-year-old organic Monastrell.
$70bottle
2018 Familia Pacheco Organic Monastrell
Seven-year-old organic Monastrell.
Monastrell is the Spanish name for Mourvèdre, and Jumilla's heat makes it dark and meaty. Blackberry, dried fig, black olive, woodsmoke. The bottle age has rounded the tannin.
If you drink Australian
McLaren Vale Mataro, playing lead.
Say it fa-MEE-lya pa-CHE-ko
2024 Bodega Cerrón ‘Remordimiento’ Tinto
Jumilla, but light and juicy.
$85bottle
2024 Bodega Cerrón ‘Remordimiento’ Tinto
Jumilla, but light and juicy.
Crushed raspberry, dark cherry, black pepper, little or no oak. Low tannin, and it keeps sending you back for more.
Say it bo-DE-ga theh-RRON rre-mor-dee-MYEN-to
2021 Casa Castillo ‘Las Gravas’
Concentrated Monastrell that stays light on its feet.
$300bottle
2021 Casa Castillo ‘Las Gravas’
Concentrated Monastrell that stays light on its feet.
Old vines on stony ground in one of Spain's hottest corners, and the wine never turns heavy. Blackberry, dark plum, dried herbs, and the gravel note the wine is named for. Fine tannin, long dry finish.
If you drink French
Bandol, without hesitation. Riper and more open now.
Why it’s on the list
Casa Castillo is the reference for Monastrell in Spain, and Las Gravas is the wine that made the case. It is in a very good drinking window right now.
Say it KA-sa kas-TEE-yoh, las GRA-bas
Cariñena2 wines
2023 Care Nouveau Tinto Sobre Lías
Young Garnacha and Syrah, served cold.
$65bottle
2023 Care Nouveau Tinto Sobre Lías
Young Garnacha and Syrah, served cold.
A few months on lees for some flesh. Blackberry, blueberry, violet, and a peppery snap from the Syrah. Soft and juicy.
Say it KA-re Two syllables, 'KA-re', not the English word 'care'.
Ribera del Duero2 wines
2020 Bardos ‘Viñedos de Altura’
Ribera del Duero from high vineyards.
$110bottle
2020 Bardos ‘Viñedos de Altura’
Ribera del Duero from high vineyards.
Hot days, cold nights on the Castilian plateau. Blackcurrant, black plum, cedar and vanilla, dried mushroom underneath. Tight tannin, bright acid.
If you drink Australian
Coonawarra Cabernet drinkers will feel at home, with an extra leathery note.
Say it BAR-dos bee-NYE-dos de al-TOO-ra
2022 Conde de San Cristóbal
The dark side of Tempranillo.
$115bottle
2022 Conde de San Cristóbal
The dark side of Tempranillo.
Ribera grows Tempranillo, called Tinto Fino there, high and cold, and it comes out darker than in Rioja. Blackberry, dark plum, chocolate and coffee from the barrel. Polished.
If you drink French
Saint-Émilion with some oak on it.
Why it’s on the list
Order it after the Marqués de Vargas and you get the whole Rioja and Ribera argument in two glasses.
Say it KON-deh deh san krees-TOH-bal
Tenerife1 wine
2021 Suertes del Marqués ‘7 Fuentes’
Volcanic soil, ungrafted vines, Tenerife.
$85bottle
2021 Suertes del Marqués ‘7 Fuentes’
Volcanic soil, ungrafted vines, Tenerife.
Red cherry, pomegranate, then smoke, ash and a peppery, almost salty finish. Light, low in tannin, a bit wild.
Why it’s on the list
Phylloxera never reached the Canaries, so these vines grow on their own roots in volcanic rock, worked by hand on a mountainside.
Say it SWER-tes del mar-KES, SYE-te FWEN-tes The 7 is spoken in Spanish: 'siete', not 'seven'.
Valdejalón (Aragón)1 wine
2021 Frontonio ‘Microcósmico’
High-altitude Garnacha. Perfume first.
$95bottle
2021 Frontonio ‘Microcósmico’
High-altitude Garnacha. Perfume first.
Raspberry, dried strawberry, wild thyme, orange peel. Silky, with sandy tannin and enough acid to stay fresh. Warm-country fruit in a cool-country shape.
If you drink Australian
Old-vine Barossa Grenache, drier and more herbal.
Say it fron-TO-nyo mee-kro-KOS-mee-ko
Navarra1 wine
2022 Luzador ‘Los Andreses’
Garnacha and Tempranillo from Navarra.
$80bottle
2022 Luzador ‘Los Andreses’
Garnacha and Tempranillo from Navarra.
Red cherry, plum, liquorice, a dusty finish. Garnacha gives the soft middle, Tempranillo the edges. Navarra catches Pyrenean air, so it feels cooler than most Spanish reds.
Say it loo-tha-DOR los an-DRE-ses
Campo de Borja1 wine
2020 Bodegas Aragonesas ‘Don Ramón’
Campo de Borja Garnacha, warm and easy.
$80bottle
2020 Bodegas Aragonesas ‘Don Ramón’
Campo de Borja Garnacha, warm and easy.
Raspberry, stewed strawberry, dried herb, sweet spice, with a little Tempranillo for grip. Soft and generous.
If you drink Australian
Barossa Grenache, drier and dustier.
Say it bo-DE-gas a-ra-go-NE-sas don rra-MON
Utiel-Requena1 wine
2021 Murviedro ‘Sericis Cepas Viejas’
Old-vine Bobal.
$80bottle
2021 Murviedro ‘Sericis Cepas Viejas’
Old-vine Bobal.
Bobal is one of Spain's most planted grapes and almost unknown outside it. Thick-skinned and naturally high in acid, so it makes dark wine that still tastes fresh. Sour cherry, blackberry, violets, a stony bitter edge.
If you drink Australian
King Valley Sangiovese, darker and denser.
Say it moor-BYE-dro SE-ree-thees THE-pas BYE-has
Manchuela1 wine
2022 Bodegas Ponce ‘La Casilla’
The Bobal that made people pay attention to Bobal.
$80bottle
2022 Bodegas Ponce ‘La Casilla’
The Bobal that made people pay attention to Bobal.
Wild raspberry, dark cherry, dried flowers, and a wet-stone, slightly bloody edge. Light on its feet for something this dark, with chalky tannin.
If you drink French
Morgon or Fleurie, with a firmer frame.
Why it’s on the list
Juan Antonio Ponce is the reason Bobal has a reputation at all. La Casilla is where he made the case.
Say it bo-DE-gas PON-the la ka-SEE-ya
Monterrei1 wine
2020 Quinta da Muradella ‘Candea’ Tinto
Mencía and Garnacha Tintorera from Monterrei.
$90bottle
2020 Quinta da Muradella ‘Candea’ Tinto
Mencía and Garnacha Tintorera from Monterrei.
Galicia's driest, warmest corner, on the Portuguese border. Red cherry, violets and pepper from the Mencía, colour and grip from the Tintorera. Taut and stony.
If you drink French
Chinon, rounder and less leafy.
Say it KEEN-ta da moo-ra-DEL-ya kan-DE-a
Mallorca1 wine
2018 4 Kilos Vinícola ‘12 Volts’
Mallorca: Callet and Fogoneu, with Syrah and Cabernet.
$175bottle
2018 4 Kilos Vinícola ‘12 Volts’
Mallorca: Callet and Fogoneu, with Syrah and Cabernet.
Callet and Fogoneu rarely leave the island. Pale and perfumed, given shape by the Syrah and Cabernet. Wild herbs, red plum, dried orange peel, sea air. Silky, with a warm salty finish.
If you drink French
Pic Saint-Loup, with a lighter, more floral top.
Why it’s on the list
Mallorca makes very little wine and drinks most of it at home.
Say it KWA-tro KEE-los bee-NEE-ko-la, DOD-ze VOLS Catalan numerals: dotze volts; the final t in volts is dropped.
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The regions, explained
Twenty-three corners of Spain, in plain English. What each place is known for, why the wine tastes the way it does, and what the letters on the label actually mean.
Rioja
ree-OH-hah
Northern Spain along the Ebro, near Logroño. Warm days and cool nights, the way Clare Valley works.
18 wines
Rioja
ree-OH-hah
Northern Spain along the Ebro, near Logroño. Warm days and cool nights, the way Clare Valley works.
Known for
The famous one, and famous for a particular taste: dried strawberry, vanilla, dill and leather laid over soft tannin, the signature of years in oak. Tempranillo leads, with Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo filling in around it. A newer generation picks earlier and works single sites, and their reds come out brighter and more savoury with the vanilla turned right down. Viura handles the whites, which run from crisp and young to nutty and aged.
On the label
DOCa Rioja(Denominación de Origen Calificada), one of only two top-tier denominations in Spain alongside DOQ Priorat. Two systems run side by side. One measures time: Genérico for the young wines, Crianza at two years with one in barrel, Reserva at three with one in barrel, Gran Reserva at five with two. The other, added in 2017, measures place: Vino de Zona, Vino de Municipio for village wines, and Viñedo Singular for single vineyards with old vines, low yields and hand harvesting. The EU formally approved the viñedos singulares designation in March 2026. Underneath all of that Rioja splits three ways: Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, cooler and Atlantic-influenced, and the warmer, more Mediterranean Rioja Oriental, which is Garnacha country.
Rías Baixas
ree-AS BY-shas
Rain, granite and the Atlantic, on Galicia's west coast near Vigo.
7 wines
Rías Baixas
ree-AS BY-shas
Rain, granite and the Atlantic, on Galicia's west coast near Vigo.
Known for
Over a metre of rain falls here in a year, so the vines are trained overhead on granite pergolas and the wind is left to dry them out. Albariño grows almost within sight of the water. The wines come out high in acid and low in fuss: lemon, white peach, a little green apple, a salty snap at the finish. Seafood is the whole point.
On the label
DOFive sub-zones, three of which matter for most lists. Val do Salnés hugs the coast, the coolest and wettest of them and the historic home of Albariño, and its wines are the leanest and most saline. O Rosal lies on the Miño where the river becomes the frontier with Portugal, and often blends Albariño with Loureiro and Caíño Blanco for more perfume and more body. Condado do Tea sits further inland, warmer and drier, so its wines are riper and rounder. Soutomaior and Ribeira do Ulla account for the rest.
Penedès
peh-neh-DESS
Catalonia, half an hour inland from Barcelona. Warm on the coastal side, cooler in the hills behind.
6 wines
Penedès
peh-neh-DESS
Catalonia, half an hour inland from Barcelona. Warm on the coastal side, cooler in the hills behind.
Known for
Spain's sparkling heartland, on limestone terraces climbing from the Mediterranean up into the hills. Three local grapes do the work: Xarel·lo for structure and a smoky herbal grip, Macabeo for apple freshness, Parellada for floral lift. Still whites and reds happen here too, and few parts of Spain farm as much organic land.
On the label
DO Penedès. Sparkling wine grown here is labelled DO CavaCorpinnat or Clàssic Penedès. Cava is the odd one out among Spanish DOs because it is defined by method, not place: bottle-fermented sparkling wine, legally made in several parts of Spain, from Catalonia to the Ebro valley, Extremadura and Requena near Valencia. Since 2022 Cava labels also carry a zone and a tier, with Cava de Guarda Superior covering Reserva, Gran Reserva and Cava de Paraje Calificado. In 2019 a group of leading Penedès growers, Recaredo, Gramona and Llopart among them, walked out of the Cava DO altogether and created Corpinnat, a certified collective brand demanding 100% organic farming, hand harvesting, largely estate-owned fruit, a minimum grape price and at least 18 months on lees. Clàssic Penedès is the third route, sitting inside DO Penedès itself: 100% organic, traditional method, at least 15 months on lees, with the disgorgement date printed on every label.
Bierzo
bee-AIR-thoh
Tucked into Spain's north-west between Galicia and León. Green, hilly, cooler than the Spain most people picture.
5 wines
Bierzo
bee-AIR-thoh
Tucked into Spain's north-west between Galicia and León. Green, hilly, cooler than the Spain most people picture.
Known for
Mencía is the reason to be here. On steep slate and clay it makes reds you could mistake for something northern French: crunchy red fruit, violets, a smoky stone edge, weight that never tips over into heavy. Atlantic rain arrives from one side and dry continental heat from the other, which is why even the warm vintages hold their acidity and their perfume.
On the label
DO BierzoAn ordinary Spanish DO until 2019, when it approved a quality pyramid borrowed from Burgundy. Climbing it: Vino de Villa for a single village such as Corullón, Vino de Paraje for a named site, Viña Clasificada for a single classified vineyard, and Gran Viña Clasificada at the top. Every rung demands lower yields and a longer proven track record. Most bottles still carry no tier at all, so start with the producer.
Toro
TOH-roh
West of Valladolid on the Duero. High, hot, dry, roughly a Riverland summer.
5 wines
Toro
TOH-roh
West of Valladolid on the Duero. High, hot, dry, roughly a Riverland summer.
Known for
Tinta de Toro is the local Tempranillo, thicker-skinned than most, and phylloxera never got through the sandy ground here, so ungrafted old bush vines are still standing. Sun and altitude together give reds that are dark, powerful and high in alcohol, all blackberry, liquorice and chunky tannin. The better producers now spend their energy reining that in.
On the label
DOTwo words carry most of the information on a Toro label. The first is Tinta de Toro, the local Tempranillo, which the reds have to be dominated by. The second is whichever ageing term applies, Joven through Gran Reserva, counting the months the wine spent in barrel and bottle. You will also meet Ecológico, which is simply Spanish for certified organic and has nothing to do with rank.
Jumilla
hoo-MEE-yah
Inland Murcia in Spain's south-east, back behind Alicante, where hot and dry are both understatements.
3 wines
Jumilla
hoo-MEE-yah
Inland Murcia in Spain's south-east, back behind Alicante, where hot and dry are both understatements.
Known for
Barely 300 millimetres of rain falls on this high plateau in a year, which tells you most of what you need to know. Monastrell is the grape, the one the French call Mourvèdre, and it copes. Sand in the soil kept phylloxera out, so a great many vines here are old and still on their own roots. The traditional style runs dark and warm, blackberry and dried herbs over a leathery savoury note. A newer group of growers picks earlier and keeps things fresher.
On the label
DOThe DO straddles two regions, Murcia and Castilla-La Mancha, and insists Monastrell dominate the reds. Whites are allowed as well, Macabeo, Airén, Moscatel and Chardonnay among them, so a Jumilla Chardonnay is playing by the rules, not breaking them. After that the label tells you time and not place: Joven, Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva, and one flat address covering the lot.
Monterrei
mon-teh-RAY
Inland Galicia near Ourense, with Portugal a short way south. Warmer and drier than the Galician coast.
3 wines
Monterrei
mon-teh-RAY
Inland Galicia near Ourense, with Portugal a short way south. Warmer and drier than the Galician coast.
Known for
The warmest, driest corner of Galicia, sunk into a valley that shelters it from the worst of the Atlantic rain. Godello, Treixadura and Doña Blanca make whites with more flesh and riper stone fruit than the coast manages, though the mineral spine stays firm. The reds come from Mencía and Garnacha Tintorera, dark and peppery and savoury.
On the label
DOSmall, and split in two. Val de Monterrei is the valley floor, warmer, on deeper alluvial soils, and it gives the rounder wines. Ladera de Monterrei climbs the hillside onto poorer granite and slate, and tightens everything up. Neither name reaches many labels, so treat them as background, not a shopping guide.
Rueda
RWEH-dah
High plains an hour south of Valladolid, in Castilla y León. Dry, and cold once the sun goes.
3 wines
Rueda
RWEH-dah
High plains an hour south of Valladolid, in Castilla y León. Dry, and cold once the sun goes.
Known for
Verdejo's home ground, on stony pebbled soil at 700 to 800 metres, where the heat ripens the fruit and the cold nights protect the acid. Grapefruit, fennel, green herbs, and a faintly bitter almond twist right at the end. Sauvignon Blanc drinkers land here easily, though there is more texture to it than that.
On the label
DORueda rewrote its labels around 2019. Plain 'Rueda' is now the main designation, in place of the varietal declarations that used to sit on the front. Gran Vino de Rueda means vines of at least 30 years and low yields. Vino de Pueblo is the village tier, taking 85% of its fruit from the named municipality. The old oxidative style, Rueda Dorado, survives, and so does sparkling Rueda.
Cariñena
kah-reen-YEH-nah
High stony plains in Aragón, south of Zaragoza. Fierce days, cold nights.
2 wines
Cariñena
kah-reen-YEH-nah
High stony plains in Aragón, south of Zaragoza. Fierce days, cold nights.
Known for
Start with the wind. A cold northerly called the cierzo scours these high stony vineyards and keeps them dry and healthy, and the reds it helps make are dark, juicy and herb-scented, with tannin that has grip but no meanness. The name is where people come unstuck. The town of Cariñena gave the Cariñena grape its name, then carried on planting Garnacha, which is most of what grows here now.
On the label
DO CariñenaRecognised in 1932, which puts it among Spain's original denominations. The only ladder it climbs is made of time, Joven at the bottom and Gran Reserva at the top, with no map of villages or vineyards underneath. Keep the two Cariñenas straight as you read the shelf: the place and the grape share a name, and a bottle labelled DO Cariñena is far more likely to be Garnacha.
Priorat
pree-oo-RAT
Steep baked hills two hours west of Barcelona, hotter and drier than McLaren Vale and a great deal steeper.
2 wines
Priorat
pree-oo-RAT
Steep baked hills two hours west of Barcelona, hotter and drier than McLaren Vale and a great deal steeper.
Known for
Llicorella is the word to remember. It is a black slate that splits easily, and it sends vine roots metres down in search of water. Yields end up tiny and the wines end up dense and serious: dark cherry and dried fig, wild herbs, a smoky mineral streak, tannin with real grip. Old-vine Garnatxa and Carinyena carry the load.
On the label
DOQ Priorat(Denominació d'Origen Qualificada), one of only two top-tier denominations in Spain alongside DOCa Rioja. DOQ is the highest regional classification Spain grants, and only Priorat and Rioja hold it. Sitting on top of that is Els Noms de la Terra, a pyramid lifted straight from Burgundy: DOQ Priorat at the base, then Vi de Vila for wines from one village, Gratallops for instance, then Vi de Paratge, which points at a specific site, then Vinya Classificada, then Gran Vinya Classificada at the summit. Every rung asks for lower yields, tighter traceability and more history to point to. Velles Vinyes also turns up, and simply marks old vines.
Ribeira Sacra
ree-BAY-rah SAH-krah
Cool, wet, green and close to vertical. River gorges inland from the Galician coast, near Ourense.
2 wines
Ribeira Sacra
ree-BAY-rah SAH-krah
Cool, wet, green and close to vertical. River gorges inland from the Galician coast, near Ourense.
Known for
Heroic viticulture is the official term, and for once the official term undersells it. Terraces stack up above the Sil and the Miño at angles no machine can hold, so every grape is picked by hand and carried out, sometimes by boat. What comes off them is Mencía grown on slate and granite: tart red cherry, crushed herbs, a wet-stone edge, and a weight that stops well short of heavy. Cabernet Franc from the Loire is a far closer reference than anything grown somewhere warm.
On the label
DOFive sub-zones sit inside the DO. Amandi is the celebrated one, on sun-facing slate terraces above the Sil, and its Mencía has the most structure. Ribeiras do Sil shares that slate. Ribeiras do Miño and Chantada lie closer to the Atlantic on granite and catch more rain, so their wines are lighter and brighter. Quiroga-Bibei, out to the east, is the warmest, and the only one permitted to plant flat ground. Some labels name the sub-zone. Plenty do not.
Ribera del Duero
ree-BEH-rah del DWEH-roh
High plains near Valladolid, two hours north of Madrid. Scorching afternoons, freezing nights.
2 wines
Ribera del Duero
ree-BEH-rah del DWEH-roh
High plains near Valladolid, two hours north of Madrid. Scorching afternoons, freezing nights.
Known for
Tempranillo goes by Tinta del País or Tinto Fino here, planted between 750 and 900 metres on limestone and clay. Scorching days and cold nights thicken the skins and deepen the colour, and what follows is darker, firmer and more tannic than Rioja, with black fruit, liquorice and a savoury edge. It usually wants food alongside it.
On the label
DOThis is where the ageing words repay learning properly. Joven or Roble covers the young wines, Crianza means two years with one of them in barrel, Reserva three years with one in barrel, Gran Reserva five years with two. All of it measures time, not place, because the DO does not divide its ground up. White wine only became legal inside the DO from the 2019 harvest, made from the local Albillo Mayor, the same grape behind the region's pale old-style claretes.
Bizkaiko Txakolina
biz-KY-koh chah-koh-LEE-nah
Basque coast, either side of Bilbao. Wet, windy, sea-sprayed. Tasmania's east coast in another language.
1 wine
Bizkaiko Txakolina
biz-KY-koh chah-koh-LEE-nah
Basque coast, either side of Bilbao. Wet, windy, sea-sprayed. Tasmania's east coast in another language.
Known for
Poured from a height, traditionally, to wake up the faint prickle of fizz running through it. Txakoli is low in alcohol and bracing in the best way: green apple, lemon pith, salt on the close. Hondarrabi Zuri grows on green hillsides above the Bay of Biscay, where the rain and the sea air keep everything taut.
On the label
DO Bizkaiko TxakolinaTxakoli comes in threes, one DO per Basque province: Bizkaiko here in Bizkaia, Getariako on the coast at Getaria, Arabako inland in Álava. Bizkaia's are the roundest and most serious of them, occasionally barrel aged, where Getaria's is the spritzy pour you drink standing up at a bar. Ageing gets no mention anywhere on these labels, and it hardly matters. Almost every bottle is drunk within a year or two of the harvest.
Campo de Borja
KAM-poh deh BOR-ha
Aragón in the north-east, an hour out of Zaragoza. Barossa heat, and just as dry.
1 wine
Campo de Borja
KAM-poh deh BOR-ha
Aragón in the north-east, an hour out of Zaragoza. Barossa heat, and just as dry.
Known for
Stony slopes run down off Mount Moncayo, baking through the day and chilling hard at night, and the Garnacha planted on them is old. The region calls itself the Empire of Garnacha and has the vine age to justify the swagger. Its reds are soft and generous, ripe raspberry and plum with a warm herbal lift, and they cost very little for what they deliver.
On the label
DOThe rulebook does four things: draws the boundary, names the permitted grapes, caps the yields, and hands you the ageing words, Joven for the young ones and then Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva as the wine spends longer in oak and glass. Nothing on the label ranks one patch of ground above another. The phrase worth hunting for is viñas viejas, meaning old vines.
Cebreros
theh-BREH-rohs
High granite in the Sierra de Gredos, west of Madrid. Cold nights do the work, much as they do around Canberra.
1 wine
Cebreros
theh-BREH-rohs
High granite in the Sierra de Gredos, west of Madrid. Cold nights do the work, much as they do around Canberra.
Known for
Gredos is where Garnacha goes pale and perfumed. Old bush vines cling to granite at serious altitude, cold mountain nights guard the acidity, and the reds come out floral and red-fruited, never heavy. Albillo Real, the local white, gives stony, textural wines that take well to a little skin contact.
On the label
DO Cebreros(DOP Cebreros), created in 2019. Among the youngest denominations in Spain. It started life as a quality-wine category and was registered by the European Commission as a protected designation in 2019, with Garnacha carrying the reds and Albillo Real the whites. Gredos made its name long before any of that paperwork existed, and plenty of the best growers still bottle under Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León. The tier is close to meaningless here. The name above it is not.
Mallorca
my-YOR-kah
A Balearic island out in the Mediterranean, east of Valencia. Heat, with sea breezes cutting through it.
1 wine
Mallorca
my-YOR-kah
A Balearic island out in the Mediterranean, east of Valencia. Heat, with sea breezes cutting through it.
Known for
Callet, Manto Negro and Fogoneu, three grapes almost nobody off the island bothers with. Limestone, sea air, and mid-weight reds leaning herbal, not sweet: bright red fruit, a faint saline edge. Syrah and Cabernet often join in.
On the label
Vi de la Terra Mallorca(the island's regional IGP). Mallorca does have two DOs, Binissalem and Pla i Llevant, but most of the interesting wines sit outside them. Vi de la Terra is Catalan for Vino de la Tierra, Spain's regional IGP tier, one rung below DO. On paper it reads like a demotion. In practice the island's most ambitious growers work outside the DO lines deliberately, blending across Mallorca or planting varieties the DOs restrict, so many of the best bottles wear the humbler label. The tier is not the story here.
Manchuela
man-CHWEH-lah
Inland, on the high plains between Madrid and Valencia, where the days cook and the nights bite.
1 wine
Manchuela
man-CHWEH-lah
Inland, on the high plains between Madrid and Valencia, where the days cook and the nights bite.
Known for
Bobal's best address. Thick skins, naturally high acidity, limestone at 600 to 800 metres, and reds that arrive with dark cherry, violets and a taut fresh line through the middle. Given a light hand and not much oak, the grape tastes far more elegant than its inky colour suggests.
On the label
DOCreated in 2000 along the border of Albacete and Cuenca, which makes it young. Do not muddle it with the much larger DO La Mancha next door. The classification stops at the boundary line, and inside it every wine is ranked by how long it aged, Joven through to Gran Reserva. Which leaves the producer's name doing the heavy lifting.
Tenerife
teh-neh-REE-feh
One of the Canary Islands, off north-west Africa, near Santa Cruz. Volcanic ground, Atlantic air.
1 wine
Tenerife
teh-neh-REE-feh
One of the Canary Islands, off north-west Africa, near Santa Cruz. Volcanic ground, Atlantic air.
Known for
Black volcanic soil, ungrafted old vines that phylloxera never found, and rows climbing the flank of an enormous volcano. Listán Negro turns all of that into light, smoky reds with sour cherry and an unmistakable note of ash and flint. The latitude promises something baked and heavy. Trade winds and altitude deliver the opposite, and the wines stay fresh and quick on their feet.
On the label
DO Valle de la Orotava is the relevant one here. Tenerife has five DOs in all: Valle de la OrotavaYcoden-Daute-Isora, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Valle de Güímar and Abona. Valle de la Orotava runs down the island's green northern slope below Mount Teide, and its fame rests on cordón trenzado, a training system found nowhere else, where vine shoots are plaited into ropes several metres long and laid out across the ground. None of it can be mechanised, so everything happens by hand. The paperwork is far plainer than the farming: a single designation with nothing layered on top of it. There is also an umbrella DO Islas Canarias for wines blended across the archipelago.
Terra Alta
TEH-rah AL-tah
Southern Catalonia, inland from Tarragona. Hot, dry, windy.
1 wine
Terra Alta
TEH-rah AL-tah
Southern Catalonia, inland from Tarragona. Hot, dry, windy.
Known for
Roughly a third of the world's Garnatxa Blanca grows here, which is reason enough to look. The vines sit on sandy fossil-dune soil the locals call panal, with barely any rain and two strong winds keeping disease at bay. The whites trade zing for texture: ripe stone fruit, fennel, a chalky grip and, often, salt on the finish.
On the label
DOA Catalan DO on the right bank of the Ebro, pressed hard up against the Aragón border. Its only hierarchy is time in oak, Joven up to Gran Reserva, and a village or a vineyard has no way of announcing itself. The language is the thing to prepare for. Labels are usually in Catalan, so expect Garnatxa Blanca for Garnacha Blanca, and Blanc for Blanco.
Utiel-Requena
oo-tee-EL reh-KEH-nah
Inland from Valencia on a plateau around 700 metres. Bakes by day, drops away at night.
1 wine
Utiel-Requena
oo-tee-EL reh-KEH-nah
Inland from Valencia on a plateau around 700 metres. Bakes by day, drops away at night.
Known for
Most of Spain's Bobal is planted here, a good deal of it old bush vines on clay and limestone at altitude. The reds are deeply coloured, dark plum and blackberry with a savoury herbal note, and they hold an amount of natural acidity you would not expect from anywhere this warm. The pale, bone-dry rosado is no afterthought either.
On the label
DOBobal sits at the centre of the rules, and the rest of the label is the familiar ageing vocabulary, counting up how long the wine sat in barrel and bottle before release. The quirk worth carrying around is this. Requena is one of a handful of places outside Catalonia legally authorised to make Cava, so sparkling wine grown in these vineyards can go out under the Cava DO instead.
Valdejalón (Aragón)
val-deh-hah-LON
High, dry, stony country in Aragón, west of Zaragoza and next door to Cariñena.
1 wine
Valdejalón (Aragón)
val-deh-hah-LON
High, dry, stony country in Aragón, west of Zaragoza and next door to Cariñena.
Known for
Bulk wine country for most of its history, now a source of old-vine Garnacha worth chasing. Slate, schist and sand, high up, keep it perfumed and light despite the heat: wild raspberry, dried herbs, powdery tannin.
On the label
Vino de la Tierra / IGP Valdejalón. Most Frontonio wines are labelled this way, not under DO Cariñena.IGP, or Vino de la Tierra, sits a rung below DO and gives more room on boundaries, grape varieties and yields. Here that room is chosen, not settled for. The oldest and highest vineyards often sit beyond the DO's boundaries or straddle them, or the grower simply wants latitude the rules will not grant, so the most ambitious wines leave the cellar as Vino de la Tierra. Frontonio's bottles are the case in point.
Valdeorras
val-deh-OR-ras
Galicia's eastern edge, near Ourense, on cool slate hills above the Sil.
1 wine
Valdeorras
val-deh-OR-ras
Galicia's eastern edge, near Ourense, on cool slate hills above the Sil.
Known for
Godello had nearly disappeared by the 1970s and this is where it was pulled back. It now counts among Spain's great white grapes, planted on slate slopes above the Sil, giving green apple and pear, a smoky mineral note and real weight across the palate, more of it again when the wine has aged on its lees. Mencía looks after the reds.
On the label
DOThe useful words on a Valdeorras label describe winemaking, not geography. Sobre lías means the wine rested on its spent yeast to build texture. Barrica means it saw a barrel. Both are common here, both add weight, and between them they will tell you more than the designation ever does. Godello is the flagship, though Mencía reds and Doña Blanca whites are covered too.
How to say it
Every grape and every word on this list, written the way it sounds. The stressed syllable is in capitals. Spanish z and soft c are said “th” in Spain, which is where these wines are made, so that is how they are given here.
The grapes Thirty-eight varieties. Most of them grow nowhere else.
The words on the label What the letters and the Spanish actually mean.
Spanish wine, answered
Why is the wine list at Anada entirely Spanish?
I do not know any Spanish wine. Where should I start?
What does Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva actually mean?
Is Cava just Spanish Champagne?
What is a DO, a DOCa and a DOQ?
How is this list different from other Spanish wine lists in Melbourne?
How do I pronounce these names?
Why does a bottle here cost more than at a bottle shop?
Do you have wine by the glass?
Can I bring my own wine?
Come and drink some of it
The list changes. The by-the-glass selection and the sherries change more often still. Book a table on Gertrude Street and let us pour you something you have never heard of.
Wine list current as at October 2026. Vintages change as bottles run out. All prices are per bottle in Australian dollars.